Work Wear | A Continuous Lean.

Workwear Revamped Right | Over All Master Cloth

Oct 25th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Work Wear | by Jake Gallagher

 

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One of the most interesting stories of the past couple years has been the unexpected marriage of streetwear and workwear, two once disparate styles that now seem to butt up against each other at every possible opportunity. This relationship has lead to many unlikely collaborations and collections, but few, if any, have been executed as masterfully as Carhartt Work in Progresses’ new Over All Master Cloth line. The collection, which was conceived by Carhartt’s well-known European licensee, and designed by a former head designer of Supreme, takes the centurion workwear brand into uncharted territory.

You won’t find any camel colored zip-ups here, as those signature duck canvas jackets have been replaced by Harris Tweed chore jackets, and Loro Piana suits. The traditional workwear look remains, if only as the foundation for O.A.M.C., which uses Carhartt classics as a starting point before delving into the world of high-end streetwear. The result is a collection in which thick-soled derby’s are constructed out of Bison leather, chore jackets are crafted in dark canvas colors, oxfords are affixed with contrasting shooting patches, and sport coats are cut from duck camo wools.

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Classic Workwear Since 1924.

Jul 22nd, 2013 | Categories: New York City, Work Wear | by Michael Williams

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The New York Times recently did a story in the real estate section about an old family run uniform company  from Brooklyn called W.H. Christian & Sons. I’ve seen the company’s delivery trucks around New York (especially in the Financial District) for as long as I have lived in the city and I am always taken with their appearance. It’s a weird thing to say, but I really love the way those trucks are painted. In 2008 I posted about how they are the best looking delivery truck in NYC.

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Meet the New Red Wing Heritage 875 & 877

Jul 1st, 2013 | Categories: Footwear, Made in the USA, Work Wear | by Michael Williams

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Last week I was in Portland with Red Wing Heritage for the launch the new and updated 875 and 877 styles at an event at Lizard Lounge. It was a nice party, drinks were had, lots of friends showed up and near the end Dolorean played a few songs. Red Wing is a client of ours, so we were in PDX on official business, which included inviting some folks to the event. Without knowing what was going on, several of the people I told about the event for the relaunch of the 875 were alarmed. ‘Why does the 875 need to be updated?” They would say, and for good reason; the 875 and 877 do not need to be messed with. Don’t worry though, the change is definitely a good one. The 875 and 877 remain two American icons.

Right off the bat, the shape both styles has not changed a bit. Everything in that regard is exactly the same. Don’t worry, they are still made in the U.S. What has changed is the leather, which has reverted back to a historically significant variant from the Red Wing archives. The name of this new 875/877 leather is Oro Legacy. It’s a full grain “naked” leather which exhibits much more character than the leather of the old 875/877s. All of the Red Wing Heritage leather is made in Red Wing, MN at the company’s own tannery.





Shopping Tokyo | Pueblo

Nov 7th, 2012 | Categories: Tokyo, Vintage, Work Wear | by Michael Williams

So much of Tokyo is tucked away in a small alleyways or hidden upstairs in a plain-looking office buildings that if you aren’t actively looking for things you probably won’t find the really good stuff. Part of this is because Tokyo rents are amazingly expensive, and part of it seems to be based on the thrill of the hunt. Such is the case for the vintage shop Pueblo. The owner Eiji Asakawa keeps a sign out front, but unless you know what you are looking for or are an adventurous sort you are probably going to miss the place. There are so many randomly named places in Harajuku that if you were to check everything out you would probably just spend most of your day discovering hair salons. The Japanese obsession with hair is something I can’t even begin to understand. The Japanese obsession with vintage Americana, that I have a better idea about.





Carhartt Made in U.S.A. Collection

Oct 8th, 2012 | Categories: Made in the USA, Work Wear | by Michael Williams

This is the label that we all want to see.

Carhartt makes a lot of clothing in the U.S. (57 million garments since 1998), probably more than many people realize. The hard-working family owned Michigan outfitter hasn’t done much up until now to let people know just how much the brand produces domestically. That’s probably because it is an old school and humble Midwest company that prefers to let the conversation be about making quality stuff that keeps people safe and dry and warm. Carhartt is also a complex business that operates in a very competitive marketplace, a market that serves hardworking people who need to be very conscious of price.

While I know the Carhartt has been making clothing in the U.S. since Hamilton Carhartt founded the company in 1889, it hasn’t stopped me from being critical of the company at times. I have done this because, up until now, more emphasis has not been placed on made in USA. Every time I saw the Adam Kimmel collection I wished it was made here. To me, being made in the U.S.A. would have been the most interesting aspect of that type of collaboration collection, one that is clearly was targeted at a different consumer.

With the release of this new Made in USA Collection, the iconic workwear outfitter has made a commitment to offering U.S. made versions of its seven most popular pieces. Apparently, the creation of this collection is a direct response to consumers who wanted the option to buy domestically made goods.





Better Than New | Re-crafting the Red Wing 1905

Jan 25th, 2012 | Categories: Footwear, Work Wear | by Michael Williams

My love of Red Wing began early one Saturday morning when I was thirteen years old. My father came into my room and woke me up and drove me to the Red Wing store in my hometown on the East Side of Cleveland to get my first pair of work boots. The excitement of the gift of work boots from my dad quickly faded when I realized that I was then being conscripted into weekends and summers of manual labor. What I leaned about working for my dad was sort of surprising to me; I loved working outside and I loved manual labor. When the job was done, you are done. And each day held huge feelings of accomplishment. It was through this experience that my life long appreciation and connection to the Red Wing Shoe Company was forged.

A great part of buying a Goodyear-welted boot was the fact that I could have them re-soled, and even have it done multiple times. When you are doing physical work on your feet all day, it doesn’t take you long to realize that breaking in new boots adds a seriously unwanted wrinkle into earning a paycheck. My solution was to own two pairs of Red Wings. When the soles on one pair would wear out, I would send them in to be re-soled and would wear the back up pair while they were away. So if a pair was at the factory being re-crafted, the other pair would be comfortably on my feet. For me, breaking in new boots on the job was a thing of the past.





Workwear from Way Back | H.W. Carter & Sons

Jan 16th, 2012 | Categories: Work Wear | by Michael Williams

I first heard a few month’s back that Greg Chapman (who most recently launched the Perfecto Brand for Schott NYC), Nate Warkentin and Chris Grodzki (from Stanley & Sons) were all working together on a new collection of workwear called H.W. Carter & Sons. The thing was, it wasn’t necessarily all new. The mark and rights to H.W. Carter & Sons was acquired and Greg, Nate and Chris got together to put a collection together and relaunch the company, one of America’s oldest work clothing makers. Along the way Greg came to me for some marketing help and we (by we I mean Paul + Williams) started working with the brand (full disclosure and all that good stuff). The interesting thing is, H.W. Carter’s & Sons is an old company. Originally founded back in 1859 by Henry W. Carter in Lebanon, New Hampshire it soon after became widely regarded (especially in New England) for its overalls and workwear. Henry Carter himself became widely known as a showman and extravagant fellow, often marketing his company wildly throughout the Northeast.