There is really nothing like a clothing factory. And I mean clothing in the proper menswear sense of the word – suiting. It really is amazing that I haven’t visited the good people at Martin Greenfield sooner, but I never really had a good opportunity. When Tyler Thoreson and I got to talking about Gilt’s Martin Greenfield suit offering it was just the chance I was looking for. Ladies in smocks constructing jackets, sewers sitting together stitching by hand, and of course, Martin (along with his two sons) on the factory floor full of enthusiasm. Check this off my list.
You can tell this place never stops and probably hasn’t for years. (Note the GGG clock.) The floor gets layered and layered around tables and machines because there is no time to stop production and redo the worn out floor. The factory has been there so long the neighborhood went from good to bad to hipster in a blink of Martin’s eye. During their breaks, the Greenfield factory workers spill out onto the sidewalk in front of the building and mix with seemingly unemployed creative types that inhabit the post-industrial streets of Bushwick.
At one point Martin took me to his office and showed me some of this photos. The man has dressed presidents, police chiefs, celebrities and even his honor, the current Mayor of New York (who was scheduled for a fitting the day after I was there). It was so interesting to listen to the stories Martin was telling me about his childhood, how he survived The Holocaust and came to America to start at the bottom in the clothing business. Eventually he owned the company. His story is truly the American dream and I can’t think of anything that is more deserving a nod here.
so good to see things like this here in the states. he is truly the best in so many ways.
its unfortunate that his sons dont share the same attitude, passion and love for the business and their clients. must be frustrating for him.
all the same, want them to do so very well.
Can’t they get that poor woman a decent chair?
Like visiting Imogene + Willie (Nashville, TN) or John Matouk & Co. (Fall River, MA), finding others who have a passion for hand craftsmanship is so refreshing and inspiring.
Love these images.
just recently completed sewing a mens suit jacket myself.
So much goes work and effort and patience goes into it.
Crazzy.
http://fayfriscolife.blogspot.com/2010/07/gentlemens-club.html
interesting lining in the 19th photo
@jc completely agree on the lining.
Any idea on the lead time needed for one of these suits?
Thank you for the inspiring post. I love stories like this. From
Holocaust survivor to the great American success .The man has balls of steel.
just got my tux from the Gilt sale today. Love it, it’s perfect. Question for you experts: these “hand-tailored” suits/tuxes are basted, not glued, correct? Is that what “hand tailored” means?
@HolThaDo “Hand-tailored” doesn’t really mean anything. I think you mean your suit is canvassed rather than fused. That means it has a full interlining (usually made from horsehair) rather than glue.
exactly — I’m wondering if these Gilt Martin Greenfield’s suits (tux in my case) are/is canvasssed/basted rather than glued. I am no expert, no idea how to tell. I guess I’m assuming basted but I thought those would cost much more. Anyone?
forget it tailor said it’s basted not glued. Also having workable buttonholes added.
To tell if it’s canvassed or glued, take the jacket between your thumb and index finger and rub together, and if it’s indeed canvassed you should feel a layer in between the two layers of the shell and lining.
If Martin Greenfield is making it, it’s undoubtedly going to be canvassed.
A couple things…
1. When you are doing hand tailoring, you dont want to sit in a regular ie. comfy chair. You sorta crouch over your work. The balance is different. Check out this guy: http://cache2.asset-cache.net/xc/50773720.jpg?v=1&c=IWSAsset&k=2&d=E41C9FE5C4AA0A14598EB813DA5CB59A398B5CBB0DC6289CE802AFA67377C4CCB01E70F2B3269972
2. Canvas can be hand or machine basted. Both give that roll to the lapel. I suspect, by the prices, that these are machine basted, but that is just a guess. As otherwise, there would be many more pictures of people hand sewing jacket fronts in that herringbone stitch that allows the canvas to float in place. Like in the pic above.