Pitti Uomo 2013 | A Continuous Lean.

Better Getting Better | Salvatore Piccolo

Jul 30th, 2013 | Categories: Made in Italy, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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This is the brand you probably only hear about in the wake of Pitti Uomo. The reason it doesn’t come up much is because, outside of his custom shirting clients, Salvatore Piccolo has very little distribution of the brand in the U.S. In a way, this limited availability sort of enhances the brand to me. It’s not in every shop and it’s not on every e-commerce outpost. Barneys has it and that’s apparently enough for the brand and for people like me who love its collection.

The reasons for this limited engagement, I hear, has to do with the fact that Salvatore himself is very involved in the entire process of making his clothing, from designing the fabrics (many of which are exclusive from mills in both Italy and Japan) to running the bottega in Napoli where everything is made. Increasing production and expanding is tough when one man needs to be involved in every detail. Coincidentally, that’s probably what makes these clothes so great and it is also probably the reason why I like them so much.

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Further Assessments | Salvatore Piccolo AW13

Mar 19th, 2013 | Categories: Further Assessments, Made in Italy, Menswear, Napoli, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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This is the room I most want to see in every season at Pitti Uomo. Piccolo is the master of color and texture. He mixes in English, American and Japanese with Italian style in the most simplistic and natural way. He’s also mastered of fabric if you were wondering. Not only that, he’s easy-going and affable as a person, which makes the visit even that much more enjoyable. He’s always wants to tell you about the process and the little details that make his clothing so special. It started as custom shirts all made in his bottega in Napoli. Later it evolved to ties, then on to jackets and now he makes handsome suits as well. The guy is a unstoppable.

Barneys brings it to America and Savatore comes to New York a few times a year to work with his custom clients, but when you see everything in once place like at Pitti, the presence of the collection overwhelms. It’s a feeling of mixed joy and pain. Happiness that you get to see it. Sadness that you can’t just pack it all up in trunks and ship it back directly to your closet where you will systematically deploy it to become the world’s best dressed man. [SALVATORE PICCOLO]

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Know Thyself | ISAIA AW13

Jan 27th, 2013 | Categories: Italy, Made in Italy, Menswear, Napoli, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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Seeing Isaia’s fall collection is one of the things that makes the trek to Florence worth it. The Neapolitan tailor never ceases to impress when it comes to shape and texture. The styling and strong sense of color also serve as some of the most inspirational corners of the menswear summit that is Pitti Uomo. The brand’s AW13 collection is no let down in this regard. There’s a lot going on in a relatively small selection of items, but the spirit remains and Isaia continues to delight with its willingness to know itself and be the brand it wants to be, not the brand other people want it to be.

Like most of the Isaia clothing in the past, this collection draws its inspiration from Naples, specifically from Januarius (the city’s patron saint) and the Naples Cathedral. The details of these inspirations show up in prints and in other small elements of the collection. The photos here give a nice sense of the fabrics, styling and feelings you can look forward for the coming fall.

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Get to Know | Officine Generale AW13

Jan 18th, 2013 | Categories: Menswear, Paris, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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The best new thing I saw at Pitti is Officine Generale, a collection that was actually launched last January. Sure, that doesn’t technically make it brand new (the SS13 collection, though, is just landing at H.W. Carter & Sons in Brooklyn, Unionmade in S.F. + more), but when thinking of clothing brands, the second season is still technically new, especially by Pitti’s standards, where things tend to move very slowly and deliberately, much like a Neapolitan dinner. In the end, Pitti’s predictability is actually what makes the show charming. Yet, it’s those unexpected discoveries, like the classic French styling of Officine Generale, that keep us coming back to Florence twice a year (the bistecca fiorentina doesn’t hurt either).

The collection is inspired by military clothing and classic tailoring, and takes elements from both without going crazy. My feeling: a little goes a long way. This collection is positioned perfectly for anyone who wants to dress comfortably and stylishly without screaming where he comes from. Wearing these clothes, you could go anywhere and be from anywhere. Options are not limited. It’s a concept that’s easy for me to embrace. Options are good.

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