Wants & Desires | Individualized Shirts | A Continuous Lean.

Wants & Desires | Individualized Shirts

Feb 27th, 2009 | Categories: Style, Wants & Desires | by Michael Williams

You see a lot of Individualized shirts in Japan. At my perennial favorite Beams+ and a million other stores in Tokyo. It is interesting because you don’t see the Individualized brand (which is American List endorsed) much in the U.S., the company opts to stay behind the scenes. Much has been said recently about Pennsylvania based Gitman Brothers (which is a division of the same company that owns Individualized) and their many brand partnerships — which I equate to their flexibility and ability to work in small quantities — but I wonder if Perth Amboy, NJ based Individualized will get into the same game here in the States. Why market one brand in the U.S. and one in Japan?

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The Individualized shirts just flat-out have a good shape. From the button-down collar to the bottom opening that is perfectly cut for tucking and un-tucking alike. Outside of retailers like Hynm’s (where these images originate) the best way to get your hands on Individualized goods are through MTM programs at Brooks Brothers, J. Press and a plethora of other traditional men’s shops throughout the U.S. If you are thinking of going the MTM route, my recommendation would be to go to Press and ask for Jay Walter, you’ll get a good shirt and meet a true gentleman in the process.

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Comments: 18

18 Comments to “Wants & Desires | Individualized Shirts”

  1. Aaron Britt
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 1:29 PM

    I have an Individualized Shirt that I got made-to-measure from The Hound in San Francisco. Though I’m happy with the quality of the shirt, and how it’s taken both dry cleaning as well as plain old washer and dryer laundering, the cut is all wrong. It blouses terribly, is very long and generally makes me feel like as though I’m wearing a Victorian nightshirt. The guy who took my measurements seemed to know what he was doing, though the shirt would easily fit a guy with a 40″ waist. Mine is 34″. Nice work in the collar though, and the French cuffs are great, with just a touch of extra room on the left for my watch. For custom shirts in SF, I’d recommend Seymour’s Fashion, though. Al’s Attire in North Beach is also a good bet.

  2. Andrew
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 2:52 PM

    Hey ACL.What is your favorite made to measure shirt?

    Also who do you like better? gitman or individual?

  3. Michael Williams
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 3:22 PM

    I have only had a few made but I would recommend Individualized from J. Press, Carl Goldberg at CEGO is a good guy and knows his stuff and finally, my client Alexander West makes an excellent shirt. For the money, at this point, I would go for A. West. No pressure though. This is a personal thing and you should make your own decisions.

    ACL

  4. christopher
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 4:26 PM

    What do the A West made to measures typically run?

  5. Michael Williams
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 4:28 PM

    A West shirts are $100 – $150. The tuxedo shirts go to $200 though.

    ACL

  6. Richard
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 5:37 PM

    These shirts look fantastic – classic styles but with a hint of (if you’ll pardon the pun) individuality.

    I tend to get my shirts from Jermyn Street makers like TM Lewin (cheaper end) and Thomas Pink (higher end) – with a 32” waist I have to stick with slim fit but they suit my body shape pretty well.

  7. Matt
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 7:07 PM

    Richard, you know that “I get my shirts from the Jermyn Street makers” means these days “I get my shirts from Romania” ?

    Not that there is necessarily wrong with that, but its worth being aware of (personally I have a few Charles Tyrwhitt and they are generally fine, except one of the “Sea Island” shirts seemed to be made of blue “Sea Island” sandpaper).

  8. JP
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 11:40 PM

    That’s a REALLY BAD label. They need help with the branding big time. Looks cheap cheap cheap.

  9. Michael Williams
    on Feb 27th, 2009
    @ 11:41 PM

    It’s Japan only, so the label is fine. Know the context…

    ACL

  10. Thom
    on Feb 28th, 2009
    @ 1:16 AM

    Speaking of Japanese style, I just picked up a remarkable Japanese magazine called Go Out: Outside Style (or possibly the reverse). I’m going to scan the best parts and send it to you. Also picked up an issue of Popeye, which is surprisingly another good men style magazine.

  11. JP
    on Feb 28th, 2009
    @ 7:53 AM

    I was a little buzzed when I commented on the label (11:40 pm on a Friday night). My reaction was a little overstated. Apologies.

  12. Style Salvage Steve
    on Feb 28th, 2009
    @ 5:06 PM

    Nice post. It frustrates me greatly that so many great English (and US brands as shown here) fail to make an impression in their home markets but make huge in roads in Japan. It just shows that Japan is so far ahead when it comes to men’s fashion. The rest of the world needs to look and learn.

  13. Amit
    on Mar 2nd, 2009
    @ 1:23 PM

    Any idea if one can just go to the Individualized factory in Perth Amboy and place an order? I know Martin Greenfield will do this from time to time at his factory in Greenpoint..

  14. Amit
    on Mar 2nd, 2009
    @ 1:24 PM

    *Bushwick, not Greenpoint

  15. robbo
    on Mar 2nd, 2009
    @ 1:54 PM

    where can i get a shirt like this in london

    i love this fabric and collar

  16. David
    on Mar 2nd, 2009
    @ 7:07 PM

    Bergdorf Goodman’s MTM uses Individualized and has a separate line on the production floor with a higher quality make.

    Oily Boy Japan has some great shots of Individualized suits and shirts as well

  17. Lori
    on Mar 10th, 2009
    @ 10:20 AM

    Yes, Amit you can go directly to the Individualized factory in Perth Amboy and order your mtm shirts.
    If you go to their website they can even direct you to stores that carry their line in your area.
    It’s a great fitting shirt, good luck!

  18. Amit
    on Mar 20th, 2009
    @ 3:54 PM

    Just had a quit chat with the very nice woman who handles the measuring at Individualized’s factory in Perth Amboy. Here’s what I got out of her:

    - 4 shirt minimum if you want to avoid a surcharge (not sure what the surcharge is, though).

    - Shirts made with middle of the road fabrics (I imagine the cloth to be super 80s-100s) run from between $60 to $100, with higher thread counts and blends (cotton/linen) going north of that. Don’t know what kind of fabrics they carry, though.

    - Full choice of collar, cuffs, monograms, etc.

    Not sure how many fittings they will do or whether there’s a surcharge for additional details (e.g. mother of pearl buttons, contrast stitching, blah blah blah). That said, I was very happy to hear “yes” after I asked her whether they’ll do a soft non-fused collar and cuffs. Very very few shirtmakers will still offer a soft collar like this (it takes more skill and time to make), and to get a USA made-to-measure, non-fused shirt for under $100 bucks? This is by far the best shirt deal going. I’m placing my order for four next week and will try to get some more info and pics of the factory.