A Continuous Lean.

Why The Thom Browne Suit Won’t Die.

Nov 20th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Suiting | by Jake Gallagher

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Remember when Thom Browne just made suits? If you do, more power to you, because honestly I don’t. It was a decade ago that Browne first introduced his ready to wear line, and it was three years before that, in 2001, that he opened a haberdashery down in TriBeCa to begin selling his signature shrunken suits under the Thom Browne name. This was before all the accolades, before the infamously over the top runway shows, before Browne dressed Michelle Obama for the presidential inauguration, hell it was before he even designed womenswear. A lot has changed for Browne these past few years, as epitomized by his recent visit to The White House, but thankfully all this time he’s never messed with the suit.

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The Return of Pop Up Flea London.

Nov 18th, 2014 | Categories: Pop Up Flea | by ACL Editors

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We’re setting our clocks to GMT this weekend as we head across the Atlantic for the second edition of The Pop Up Flea London. Joining us in the UK will be the PUF veterans and esteemed American brands TellasonBillykirk, Rancourt & Co., and Shinola, as well as some fresh local faces including SunspelHarry Stedman, Loft Trading, and London Cloth. It’s all going down at the historic Truman Brewery in East London this weekend only. Don’t miss your chance to shop a short term shop of superb British and American goodness.

Truman Brewery

91 Brick Lane, London E1 6QL

Friday, Nov 21th: 3pm to 8pm
Saturday, Nov 22nd: 11am to 7pm
Sunday, Nov 23rd: 12pm to 6pm

Free Entry. Open to the public.

Vendors include:





The Best Japanese Brands With The Worst Names.

Nov 18th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Japan, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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As has been discussed time and time again (and again, and again, and again, and again, and again) on this site, there are some big things happening in Japan right now. Yes, we all know that Japanese designers take inspiration from America, but the fact of the matter is, we really can’t compete with the level of excitement (and honestly the amount of money) that is fueling Japan’s budding menswear community at this moment. Some brands, such as Haversack, Nanamica, Journal Standard, and N. Hoolywood have made an international impact, but many companies, especially those that are only a few collections in, remain virtually unknown here in America.

A large part of this has to do with the tendency of Japanese designers to pick really terrible brand names. No offense to Rulezpeepz or Foot the Coacher, but Japanese brands really do have an uncanny knack for unfortunate monikers. Despite their head scratching names these brands are still creating some incredible pieces, and in many ways are guiding what men are wearing, not just in Japan, but around the world. Therefore we decided to lean into the confusion and bring you the best young Japanese brands, with the worst names.





The ACL Guide to Giving Good Gifts.

Nov 17th, 2014 | Categories: Gift Guide 2014, Sponsored Post | by Michael Williams

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It happens to almost be the most wonderful time of the year. The time when you dedicate a significant portion of your mental capacity, love and energy to (hopefully) giving the perfect gift. With this in mind personally I dedicated myself to combing through the extensive offerings from Barneys New York to find the best gifts for everyone in your life. I hand-selected a range of items which I consider to be the best of the best for everyone from your hard to impress mother-in-law to the made in USA loving dad and many more. Here’s the look book with all of those gifts. It’s also worth noting that many of these selections will also serve as worthy gifts for yourself, should you just decide to treat yourself. Can’t say I haven’t ever done something like that.

With such a vast selection of great brands Barneys New York has reigned supreme when it comes to my own personal gifting quest over the years and this holiday season is no different. So getting the opportunity to team up with them to present a complete gift guide is basically as good as it gets. I worked hard to find a diverse, interesting and thoughtful selection of gifts with a focus on quality and longevity which will last for years to come.

It’s true what they say about the thought being the thing that counts. Getting your gifts from Barneys isn’t a bad approach either. [THE ACL x BARNEYS GIFT GUIDE]





Hitting All the Blue Notes.

Nov 13th, 2014 | Categories: Denim, Jake Gallagher, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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For decades denim shirts were marked by three words: extra long tails. It was Wrangler that led the charge, boasting in ads and on store displays about their elongated shirts. The extra length was designed for Levi’s loving cowboys and blue collar workers who needed a tough shirt that wouldn’t come untucked throughout the day. This was once the prime market for denim shirts, men who would scoff at the idea of ever appearing “fashionable.”

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Oh how times have changed. That Americana staple has undergone quite a facelift over the years, and nowadays you can find denim shirts in all shapes and sizes, from cutaway collared dress shirts, to ultra distressed reproductions. Those extra long tails have now become just a small part of the denim shirt tale, so we give you our favorites after the jump. Giddy up.





The Unconventional Waltzing Matilda.

Nov 12th, 2014 | Categories: A Conversation With, Jake Gallagher, Made in the USA | by Jake Gallagher

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Mike Balitsaris of Waltzing Matilda used to buy toilet factories, but now he’s busy eyeing shoe factories. He’s journeyed from rust belt factories to a Nebraska mine to a Cupertino boardroom to a former shoe factory in Maine, but his goal has always remained the same. Baltisaris sees the potential for creating great things, and creating them right here in America, with all that he does. After a serendipitous moment in Red Wing, Minnesota he founded Waltzing Matilda and has been crafting bags, shoes, belts, and other accessories ever since.  A supremely interesting and extremely likeable guy, Mike never set out to create a collection. (Full disclosure, Paul + Williams advises and represents Waltzing Matilda.) All of the product was born originally out of a specific need or a desire for things of a certain quality.  What began as a hand-made bag and a pair of sandals has evolved into a collection and a brand with more than its fair share of personality.

As our conversation revealed Baltisaris’ story is as winding as it is fascinating, and it’s impossible to predict what lies ahead for Baltisaris or Waltzing Matilda. But he wouldn’t have it any other way.

ACL: To begin, I understand that you have pretty interesting backstory, so what were you working on before Waltzing Matilda?

MB: Most recently for the last fifteen years, I hired on with a group of likeminded individuals, it had started off as real estate but we didn’t like to take farms and fields and get them redeveloped and put office buildings up. We would go around to rustbelt cities and find these unbelievable projects. Old factories and lofts with good bones. We always called it “taking field trips,” and we’d go in and look at the bones of the buildings and we’d work something out where we could figure out how to buy it by getting tenets to go in. We actually would make a deal with the owner to give us time to be able to find a tenant for it, cause none of us had any money.

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The Importance of Looking a Little Funny

Nov 11th, 2014 | Categories: France, Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Movies | by Jake Gallagher

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French director/actor Jacques Tati’s biography states that he was born in 1907 and died in 1982, but the truth is Tati was a man immune to time. His films were comical critiques of contemporary French life, and he played characters who were constantly at odds with the modern world. As Monsieur Hulot, his most memorable character, Tati directed and starred in four films during the fifties and sixties which took a humorous, yet biting look at the progressive spirit which had proliferated throughout Post-war France. With films like Mon Oncle and Play Time, Tati explored the role of the individual within the increasingly modern world of mid-century Paris. As Monsieur Hulot he battled technology, and the steady drumbeat of progress as if to say, “wait a minute, what about me?”

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