Suiting | A Continuous Lean.

Why The Thom Browne Suit Won’t Die.

Nov 20th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Suiting | by Jake Gallagher

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Remember when Thom Browne just made suits? If you do, more power to you, because honestly I don’t. It was a decade ago that Browne first introduced his ready to wear line, and it was three years before that, in 2001, that he opened a haberdashery down in TriBeCa to begin selling his signature shrunken suits under the Thom Browne name. This was before all the accolades, before the infamously over the top runway shows, before Browne dressed Michelle Obama for the presidential inauguration, hell it was before he even designed womenswear. A lot has changed for Browne these past few years, as epitomized by his recent visit to The White House, but thankfully all this time he’s never messed with the suit.

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Wash, Wear, Repeat | The Return of the Easy Wearing Suit

Jun 27th, 2014 | Categories: History, Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Suiting | by Jake Gallagher

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On a summer morning in 1946, while attending a convention in Florida, Joseph Haspel Sr. donned one his company’s signature seersucker suits and waded out into the Atlantic Ocean, all the way up to his neck. As stunned beachgoers watched on, Mr. Haspel reappeared on shore, soaked to the stripes, and returned to his hotel room, where he hung up the suit to dry. Just a few hours later he resurfaced at a banquet in that he very same outfit, causing quite a stir amongst the attendees.

Founded in New Orleans in 1909, Haspel was one of the first brands to utilize cotton and seersucker for their tailored collections, forgoing the standard mohair and wool fabrics that were far too cumbersome for the heat of a southern summer. Sr.’s seaside stunt was in line with the brand’s unorthodox approach to summerweight suits, and it was the initial step in Haspel’s evolution towards the wash and wear suit.





A Suit Worth Calling Its Own | Freemans Sporting Club

Mar 3rd, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, New York City, Suiting | by Jake Gallagher

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Since first opening their doors back in 2005, Freemans Sporting Club has lined their shelves with a truly impressive amount of American made goods, but until this past fall they were missing one crucial item – a suit worthy of their own name.

As a brand whose wares have always exuded a confident yet easy air not unlike that of a college professor, the classically tuned Freeman suit sits comfortably alongside the rest of the FSC collection, but it also represents a new frontier for the brand. The label’s original suit packed a lofty price tag, and was admittedly bit too persnickety for many suit shoppers, so this past year the brand’s design team set out to create a more approachable, entry level suit that better represented Freemans as a whole.





Mr. Williams is Well Suited

Sep 28th, 2010 | Categories: Magazines, Suiting, TV | by Michael Williams

There is a great suit story in the October issue of GQ that was shot by Ben Watts and features none other than Michael Kenneth Williams, who is starring as Chalky White in HBO’s epic new series Boardwalk Empire. Seeing Williams in a suit (in GQ and on Boardwalk Empire) is a departure from the five seasons he spent as the rogue shotgun-toting badass Omar Little in HBO’s other great series The Wire. The most dressed up we ever saw Omar in The Wire was when McNulty took him to Men’s Warehouse (and later abandoned him) for Bird’s trial. Getting back to Boardwalk Empire, the costuming and sets are big budget movie quality and are like nothing I have ever seen. My only complaint is that Mr. Williams (who I should point out has the exact same first, middle and last name as me) doesn’t get enough screen time.

These GQ celebrity suit stories always seem to turn out great and are something I look forward to in the magazine. John Slattery had a similar story in the August 2008 issue, which I also liked a lot. But this Ben Watts x Williams feature takes the three piece suit to a whole new level. Well played all around. You can see the whole story here.

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No Sleep till Bushwick | Martin Greenfield Clothiers

Jul 29th, 2010 | Categories: Factory Tour, Made in New York, New York City, Suiting | by Michael Williams

There is really nothing like a clothing factory. And I mean clothing in the proper menswear sense of the word — suiting. It really is amazing that I haven’t visited the good people at Martin Greenfield sooner, but I never really had a good opportunity. When Tyler Thoreson and I got to talking about Gilt’s Martin Greenfield suit offering it was just the chance I was looking for. Ladies in smocks constructing jackets, sewers sitting together stitching by hand, and of course, Martin (along with his two sons) on the factory floor full of enthusiasm. Check this off my list.

You can tell this place never stops and probably hasn’t for years. (Note the GGG clock.) The floor gets layered and layered around tables and machines because there is no time to stop production and redo the worn out floor. The factory has been there so long the neighborhood went from good to bad to hipster in a blink of Martin’s eye. During their breaks, the Greenfield factory workers spill out onto the sidewalk in front of the building and mix with seemingly unemployed creative types that inhabit the post-industrial streets of Bushwick.





Made in Brooklyn | Martin Greenfield for Gilt

Jul 14th, 2010 | Categories: Made in New York, Made in the USA, Suiting | by Michael Williams

If you are in the market for a new suit, the time is now. If you are attending a wedding soon and need a suit, the time is now. If you are someone that just likes to wear suits, the time is now. I can’t say this enough.

One of the most common emails I get from people needing style advice is about finding and buying a good suit. I have a few favorite places I generally point people to (one of which was Hickey, may it rest in peace), so when I heard from Gilt about the suits the commissioned from Martin Greenfield I got legitimately excited for a few reasons. 1. Because these are the perfect recommendation for anyone needing a suit. 2. The value for money for this clothing is off the charts. 3. Martin Greenfield makes really nice suits. 4. I’m in the market for a new suit.





Sartorial Balance Sheet | Discretion Unbound

Oct 19th, 2009 | Categories: David Coggins, Style, Suiting | by Michael Williams

Friday’s Times ran a photo of Lloyd Blankfein, chairman of Goldman Sachs, who’s perhaps the savviest, most well-connected money man in the country. The news was Goldman’s ice cold $3 billion third quarter profit, but what struck us was the sight of Mr. Blankfein leaving the last button of his suit cuff unbuttoned. Long favored by Italians all the way up the corporate chain of command, the deliberately unstudied style was embodied by Gianni Agnelli, the iconic head of Fiat. Though we’ve long felt that American CEO’s should learn at the Agnelli altar, the sight of Mr. Blankfein roused certain sartorial misgivings.

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