There is really nothing like a clothing factory. And I mean clothing in the proper menswear sense of the word — suiting. It really is amazing that I haven’t visited the good people at Martin Greenfield sooner, but I never really had a good opportunity. When Tyler Thoreson and I got to talking about Gilt’s Martin Greenfield suit offering it was just the chance I was looking for. Ladies in smocks constructing jackets, sewers sitting together stitching by hand, and of course, Martin (along with his two sons) on the factory floor full of enthusiasm. Check this off my list.

You can tell this place never stops and probably hasn’t for years. (Note the GGG clock.) The floor gets layered and layered around tables and machines because there is no time to stop production and redo the worn out floor. The factory has been there so long the neighborhood went from good to bad to hipster in a blink of Martin’s eye. During their breaks, the Greenfield factory workers spill out onto the sidewalk in front of the building and mix with seemingly unemployed creative types that inhabit the post-industrial streets of Bushwick.

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If you are in the market for a new suit, the time is now. If you are attending a wedding soon and need a suit, the time is now. If you are someone that just likes to wear suits, the time is now. I can’t say this enough.

One of the most common emails I get from people needing style advice is about finding and buying a good suit. I have a few favorite places I generally point people to (one of which was Hickey, may it rest in peace), so when I heard from Gilt about the suits the commissioned from Martin Greenfield I got legitimately excited for a few reasons. 1. Because these are the perfect recommendation for anyone needing a suit. 2. The value for money for this clothing is off the charts. 3. Martin Greenfield makes really nice suits. 4. I’m in the market for a new suit.

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Friday’s Times ran a photo of Lloyd Blankfein, chairman of Goldman Sachs, who’s perhaps the savviest, most well-connected money man in the country. The news was Goldman’s ice cold $3 billion third quarter profit, but what struck us was the sight of Mr. Blankfein leaving the last button of his suit cuff unbuttoned. Long favored by Italians all the way up the corporate chain of command, the deliberately unstudied style was embodied by Gianni Agnelli, the iconic head of Fiat. Though we’ve long felt that American CEO’s should learn at the Agnelli altar, the sight of Mr. Blankfein roused certain sartorial misgivings.

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I thought it was worth a look back at this fantastic BBC documentary about Savile Row that was originally posted on ACL May 3rd, 2008. How has The Row reacted? Since it has been far too long since I have been in London, I’m curious to hear your thoughts in the comments. Have other High Street retailers moved on to the famed street? How is the economic slowdown impacted the tailors?

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Not long ago the BBC presented a facinating three part program on the world of Savile Row. In the first installment the English bespoke world is under threat from the American “High Street” brand Abercrombie & Fitch. Having previously worked on the public relations team at Abercrombie & Fitch, I am particularly familiar with the company. It is a very strategic and well run organization. A&F is a company where every decision is well thought out and purposeful, especially when concerning the brand image. I have to give credit where credit is due — the company’s branding and execution is on point with any of the luxury goods companies out there. That said, A&F’s decision to open on Savile Row while great for branding and image purposes, is painful to see and embarrassing to watch, especially as an American. The affect of mass market retailers on the institution (albeit a privileged one) of Savile Row, could prove to be disastrous. Though I suppose only time will tell.

I can’t seem to find the other two episodes…if anyone can locate them I will add to the post.

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With New York fashion week within arm’s reach, The Observer’s Joe Pompeo reports on the decidedly non trendy trend of Trad. The article gets some great analysis from two very honorable gentlemen, namely John Tinseth from The Trad (which is one of my favorite reads; Tinseth has amazing taste and is a helluva story teller) and David Wilder of J. Press. I have had the pleasure of talking shop over spirits with both gents on several occasions and can say without reservation that few do it better. When I worked with David at Press I would joke that he was sent from central casting. David possesses an insane knowledge about Ivy League style and WASP culture. Many thanks to Joe for including me — this is the kind of style coverage that I love. Read the article here.

J. Press suit and Blackwatch sport coat. Photos by Lee Clower.

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There is a great American Trad story in the Isetan spring 2009 catalog that I thought was worth highlighting here. The Isetan in Shinjuku is one of the most impressive stores in the world, a labyrinth of materialistic pursuits. In fact, the men’s shoe section nearly made me cry. These clothes below might not be identified or available for purchase to most of us, but I thought they are great from a styling / photography perspective. Enjoy.

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The 1956 movie based on Sloan Wilson’s best seller is one of my all time favorite films. It served as the inspiration for some of my modern day obsessions like Mad Men. There are even some excellent images in Take Ivy that document the same type of Madison Avenue business man from the late 50s early 1960s. Long before we had Thom Browne and Donald Draper there was Mr. Gregory Peck in his gray flannel suit.

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Who says you can’t afford anything from a Savile Row tailor. The much admired tailor Norton & Sons have recently released their Trotters Bag. Per the company website. “The Trotter, the most junior rank on Savile Row, trots between cutting rooms and workrooms, carrying bundles of cloth and trimmings to the sewing tailors and returning with sewn garments. At Norton & Sons our trotters use a traditional stout canvas Trotters Bag.”

I don’t think it gets more insider than to own one of these bags, although I would much prefer to show my rank with a Norton & Sons suit.

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The good people at Southwick sent along the spring summer 2009 catalog. There has been a buzz around the storied American brand with the collaboration with Engineered Garments and more recently the company’s acquisition by Brooks Brothers. Plans for Southwick were further discussed in DNR today. “In an interview, Claudio Del Vecchio, CEO of Brooks, said Southwick is a “major supplier” to Brooks Brothers, ‘so we were very interested in them and seeing them improve their quality.’” I think Southwick being sold to Brooks Brothers isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Like others, I hope that Brooks will do the right thing and keep Southwick pure.

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The August issue of GQ is out and as to be expected, it is great. Just when you thought it couldn’t get better than the Summer Dresses Summer Suits story in July they hit you with Mr. John Slattery AKA Roger Sterling cloaked head-to-toe in plaid goodness.

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Looking through these catalogs from 1958-1963 it is easy to see that not much has changed at J. Press. Back in 1958 a cotton Seersucker sportcoat was a good deal at $59.50. That very same sportcoat (or a similar style) is still offered today from J. Press for $395.00 ($296.25 if you factor in the sale that is currently going on). Now, if you adjust the 1958 price of $59.50 for inflation, the seersucker jacket would cost $433.62 in todays money. So the J. Press seersucker is beating inflation — sounds like a good investment to me.

It is interesting to see all of the two-button models that were offered way back when. Most people like to think that J. Press only sells Sack suits, but it is clear from these pictures that that is simply not the case.

All of the scans link to Flickr, once there click “all sizes” to see the hi-res versions.

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