Suiting | A Continuous Lean.

A Suit Worth Calling Its Own | Freemans Sporting Club

Mar 3rd, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, New York City, Suiting | by Jake Gallagher

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Since first opening their doors back in 2005, Freemans Sporting Club has lined their shelves with a truly impressive amount of American made goods, but until this past fall they were missing one crucial item – a suit worthy of their own name.

As a brand whose wares have always exuded a confident yet easy air not unlike that of a college professor, the classically tuned Freeman suit sits comfortably alongside the rest of the FSC collection, but it also represents a new frontier for the brand. The label’s original suit packed a lofty price tag, and was admittedly bit too persnickety for many suit shoppers, so this past year the brand’s design team set out to create a more approachable, entry level suit that better represented Freemans as a whole.





Mr. Williams is Well Suited

Sep 28th, 2010 | Categories: Magazines, Suiting, TV | by Michael Williams

There is a great suit story in the October issue of GQ that was shot by Ben Watts and features none other than Michael Kenneth Williams, who is starring as Chalky White in HBO’s epic new series Boardwalk Empire. Seeing Williams in a suit (in GQ and on Boardwalk Empire) is a departure from the five seasons he spent as the rogue shotgun-toting badass Omar Little in HBO’s other great series The Wire. The most dressed up we ever saw Omar in The Wire was when McNulty took him to Men’s Warehouse (and later abandoned him) for Bird’s trial. Getting back to Boardwalk Empire, the costuming and sets are big budget movie quality and are like nothing I have ever seen. My only complaint is that Mr. Williams (who I should point out has the exact same first, middle and last name as me) doesn’t get enough screen time.

These GQ celebrity suit stories always seem to turn out great and are something I look forward to in the magazine. John Slattery had a similar story in the August 2008 issue, which I also liked a lot. But this Ben Watts x Williams feature takes the three piece suit to a whole new level. Well played all around. You can see the whole story here.

Photos: Ben Watts





No Sleep till Bushwick | Martin Greenfield Clothiers

Jul 29th, 2010 | Categories: Factory Tour, Made in New York, New York City, Suiting | by Michael Williams

There is really nothing like a clothing factory. And I mean clothing in the proper menswear sense of the word — suiting. It really is amazing that I haven’t visited the good people at Martin Greenfield sooner, but I never really had a good opportunity. When Tyler Thoreson and I got to talking about Gilt’s Martin Greenfield suit offering it was just the chance I was looking for. Ladies in smocks constructing jackets, sewers sitting together stitching by hand, and of course, Martin (along with his two sons) on the factory floor full of enthusiasm. Check this off my list.

You can tell this place never stops and probably hasn’t for years. (Note the GGG clock.) The floor gets layered and layered around tables and machines because there is no time to stop production and redo the worn out floor. The factory has been there so long the neighborhood went from good to bad to hipster in a blink of Martin’s eye. During their breaks, the Greenfield factory workers spill out onto the sidewalk in front of the building and mix with seemingly unemployed creative types that inhabit the post-industrial streets of Bushwick.





Made in Brooklyn | Martin Greenfield for Gilt

Jul 14th, 2010 | Categories: Made in New York, Made in the USA, Suiting | by Michael Williams

If you are in the market for a new suit, the time is now. If you are attending a wedding soon and need a suit, the time is now. If you are someone that just likes to wear suits, the time is now. I can’t say this enough.

One of the most common emails I get from people needing style advice is about finding and buying a good suit. I have a few favorite places I generally point people to (one of which was Hickey, may it rest in peace), so when I heard from Gilt about the suits the commissioned from Martin Greenfield I got legitimately excited for a few reasons. 1. Because these are the perfect recommendation for anyone needing a suit. 2. The value for money for this clothing is off the charts. 3. Martin Greenfield makes really nice suits. 4. I’m in the market for a new suit.





Sartorial Balance Sheet | Discretion Unbound

Oct 19th, 2009 | Categories: David Coggins, Style, Suiting | by Michael Williams

Friday’s Times ran a photo of Lloyd Blankfein, chairman of Goldman Sachs, who’s perhaps the savviest, most well-connected money man in the country. The news was Goldman’s ice cold $3 billion third quarter profit, but what struck us was the sight of Mr. Blankfein leaving the last button of his suit cuff unbuttoned. Long favored by Italians all the way up the corporate chain of command, the deliberately unstudied style was embodied by Gianni Agnelli, the iconic head of Fiat. Though we’ve long felt that American CEO’s should learn at the Agnelli altar, the sight of Mr. Blankfein roused certain sartorial misgivings.

Blankfein





From the ACL Archive | Savile Row on the BBC

Sep 21st, 2009 | Categories: London, Savile Row, Suiting | by Michael Williams

I thought it was worth a look back at this fantastic BBC documentary about Savile Row that was originally posted on ACL May 3rd, 2008. How has The Row reacted? Since it has been far too long since I have been in London, I’m curious to hear your thoughts in the comments. Have other High Street retailers moved on to the famed street? How is the economic slowdown impacted the tailors?

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Not long ago the BBC presented a facinating three part program on the world of Savile Row. In the first installment the English bespoke world is under threat from the American “High Street” brand Abercrombie & Fitch. Having previously worked on the public relations team at Abercrombie & Fitch, I am particularly familiar with the company. It is a very strategic and well run organization. A&F is a company where every decision is well thought out and purposeful, especially when concerning the brand image. I have to give credit where credit is due — the company’s branding and execution is on point with any of the luxury goods companies out there. That said, A&F’s decision to open on Savile Row while great for branding and image purposes, is painful to see and embarrassing to watch, especially as an American. The affect of mass market retailers on the institution (albeit a privileged one) of Savile Row, could prove to be disastrous. Though I suppose only time will tell.

I can’t seem to find the other two episodes…if anyone can locate them I will add to the post.





Trad Men in The New York Observer

Sep 8th, 2009 | Categories: Men's wear, Suiting, TNSIL | by Michael Williams

With New York fashion week within arm’s reach, The Observer’s Joe Pompeo reports on the decidedly non trendy trend of Trad. The article gets some great analysis from two very honorable gentlemen, namely John Tinseth from The Trad (which is one of my favorite reads; Tinseth has amazing taste and is a helluva story teller) and David Wilder of J. Press. I have had the pleasure of talking shop over spirits with both gents on several occasions and can say without reservation that few do it better. When I worked with David at Press I would joke that he was sent from central casting. David possesses an insane knowledge about Ivy League style and WASP culture. Many thanks to Joe for including me — this is the kind of style coverage that I love. Read the article here.

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J. Press suit and Blackwatch sport coat. Photos by Lee Clower.