Savile Row | A Continuous Lean.

Outfitted for Autumn by E. Tautz

Sep 2nd, 2010 | Categories: Clothing, England, Savile Row | by Michael Williams

If you aren’t up on the house of E. Tautz and the man behind the collection Mr. Patrick Grant, you are missing out. I first wrote about the resurrection of the label in January of 2009 and am delighted to see the line available in the U.S. for the first time at Barneys.

A few months ago Patrick held a trunk show in New York which gave me a chance to touch and feel the fall collection in person. I can attest to the amazing quality of make and material. Being one who appreciates craft (not to mention English tailoring) I enjoy the emphasis that Tautz has put on the range being sourced and sewn in Britain. Accordingly, the tailored clothing is done by the same craftsman that make the bespoke goods at Norton & Sons (Tautz’s mother label).





The Last Frontier: Norton & Sons.

Oct 14th, 2009 | Categories: David Coggins, England, London, Savile Row | by Michael Williams

The case for the custom suit is well-known and irrefutable: It’s the last frontier of superior craftsmanship, entirely built by hand. The knowledge that goes into a Savile Row suit can rightly be deemed historic. Your cutter might have been taught by the man who cut suits for Winston Churchill. The sheer range of fabrics is just as astounding. You may think you know everything there is to know about tweed—think again. Some sheds in Scotland make only a handful of bolts of fabric a year. One of those bolts can be the yours.

That doesn’t make it any easier when the reckoning comes: it’s going to cost north of $4000, and you’re going to take it like a man. Once indoctrinated, however, there are few complaints. Rare is the man with only one handmade suit—he’ll do everything in his power to buy another.

That money does not go into an advertising campaign or a cologne destined for duty-free stores. Instead, it returns, as is right, to tailors who’ve apprenticed for years to become expert at what they do. In fact, the profit margins at Savile Row tailors are surprisingly small, and many have closed or left the Row. It takes clear thinking to run a traditional tailor in the modern age. Enter Patrick Grant of Norton & Sons. Grant purchased the venerable tailor (established 1821), in 2006, while still in his thirties. The Norton space at 16 Savile Row is a classic, but not everybody can be in London for the three requisite fittings. So Grant dispatches his head cutter, David Ward, to the US four times a year. ACL recently met with Mr. Ward in a midtown hotel, where he had taken a suite of rooms to conduct fittings.

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Norton & Sons shop at 16 Savile Row





From the ACL Archive | Savile Row on the BBC

Sep 21st, 2009 | Categories: London, Savile Row, Suiting | by Michael Williams

I thought it was worth a look back at this fantastic BBC documentary about Savile Row that was originally posted on ACL May 3rd, 2008. How has The Row reacted? Since it has been far too long since I have been in London, I’m curious to hear your thoughts in the comments. Have other High Street retailers moved on to the famed street? How is the economic slowdown impacted the tailors?

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Not long ago the BBC presented a facinating three part program on the world of Savile Row. In the first installment the English bespoke world is under threat from the American “High Street” brand Abercrombie & Fitch. Having previously worked on the public relations team at Abercrombie & Fitch, I am particularly familiar with the company. It is a very strategic and well run organization. A&F is a company where every decision is well thought out and purposeful, especially when concerning the brand image. I have to give credit where credit is due — the company’s branding and execution is on point with any of the luxury goods companies out there. That said, A&F’s decision to open on Savile Row while great for branding and image purposes, is painful to see and embarrassing to watch, especially as an American. The affect of mass market retailers on the institution (albeit a privileged one) of Savile Row, could prove to be disastrous. Though I suppose only time will tell.

I can’t seem to find the other two episodes…if anyone can locate them I will add to the post.





A Better Look at E. Tautz AW09

Mar 17th, 2009 | Categories: England, Savile Row, Style | by Michael Williams

In January I covered the re-launch of the storied British label E. Tautz, but it was not until recently that the photos of the clothing became available. The collection is the perfect assemblage of “English clothes,” wonderfully crafted tailored items, knits, shirtings, leather goods and accessories, nearly all of it made in Britain. In fact, the tailored clothing is made by the same cutters at Norton & Sons, Tautz’ parent. I was lucky enough to meet with Norton’s director Mr. Patrick Grant during New York Fashion Week and saw the range first hand. I can attest to the quality and artisanship of the collection. Personally, there hasn’t been a line of clothing this sought-after in a long long while. See images from the AW09 E. Tautz range after the jump and learn more about the AW09 launch here.

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The House of E. Tautz

Jan 28th, 2009 | Categories: England, London, Savile Row, Style | by Michael Williams

It seems the good people at Norton & Sons are not content with simply running one of the most respected labels in the world. Patrick Grant, the man who resurrected Norton & Sons, emailed this weekend to inform me of the imminent relaunch of the storied E. Tautz house as a ready-to-wear collection. The as yet to be seen collection (by me anyway, buyers and press got the first look this past week in Paris) of men’s clothing and accessories will launch in better stores this coming fall. The range will also be on preview for press and buyers during New York fashion week, so I hope to do a follow-up post once images of the collection are released. It is also worth pointing out that Mr. Grant and co. went to great lengths to produce the line domestically in Britain. As you know, local manufacturing is something we love here at ACL. A brief history of E. Tautz after the jump. The official Tautz site, which is worth a look, can be seen here.

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London | The Tweed Run

Jan 27th, 2009 | Categories: Bicycles, England, Savile Row, Style | by Michael Williams

What could be better than a big boozie group ride all cloaked in tweed? Leave it to the Brits to have all the fun. This past Saturday a group of fixed gear riders rode from H Huntsman & Sons at 11 Savile Row to the Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club. Some of action below. (Thanks to Lark About & H. Hovey for the tip)

12tweedrun





Norton & Sons Trotters Bag

Oct 13th, 2008 | Categories: London, Savile Row, Style, Suiting | by Michael Williams

Who says you can’t afford anything from a Savile Row tailor. The much admired tailor Norton & Sons have recently released their Trotters Bag. Per the company website. “The Trotter, the most junior rank on Savile Row, trots between cutting rooms and workrooms, carrying bundles of cloth and trimmings to the sewing tailors and returning with sewn garments. At Norton & Sons our trotters use a traditional stout canvas Trotters Bag.”

I don’t think it gets more insider than to own one of these bags, although I would much prefer to show my rank with a Norton & Sons suit.