Wandering into LeGrand Filles et Fils you can’t help but to be overcome by what has to be one of the best places to buy (and drink) wine in Paris. The front of the shop is the oldest portion of the operation and is by far the most aesthetically captivating. The visual symmetry alone is almost enough for me. Follow the space to the back and you will pass through a newer store area with even more wine related accessories and eventually you will find you in a comfortable tasting area with walls lined in even more wine, only now you’ve found the good stuff. That’s it, you need to pull up a chair and have a drink.
The best new thing I saw at Pitti is Officine Generale, a collection that was actually launched last January. Sure, that doesn’t technically make it brand new (the SS13 collection, though, is just landing at H.W. Carter & Sons in Brooklyn, Unionmade in S.F. + more), but when thinking of clothing brands, the second season is still technically new, especially by Pitti’s standards, where things tend to move very slowly and deliberately, much like a Neapolitan dinner. In the end, Pitti’s predictability is actually what makes the show charming. Yet, it’s those unexpected discoveries, like the classic French styling of Officine Generale, that keep us coming back to Florence twice a year (the bistecca fiorentina doesn’t hurt either).
The collection is inspired by military clothing and classic tailoring, and takes elements from both without going crazy. My feeling: a little goes a long way. This collection is positioned perfectly for anyone who wants to dress comfortably and stylishly without screaming where he comes from. Wearing these clothes, you could go anywhere and be from anywhere. Options are not limited. It’s a concept that’s easy for me to embrace. Options are good.
Normally the watch companies are the ones who release the finest books documenting the history and heritage of their brands. Though it wasn’t until recently when confronted with the history of iconic french trunk maker Goyard that I realized just how exceptional a company archive book can be.
In releasing the book, Goyard partnered with the storied Parisian publisher Devambez to release 233 editions, which will each set you back a healthy sum of 6000€ (not including shipping or VAT tax or any customization that you do to the case). The 233 number is symbolic because it is the address of the original Goyard store on rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. Each book is painstakingly made by hand by the finest artisans in France and comes in its own individually numbered, fully custom Goyard case.
While I wasn’t able to attend any of the shows in New York last week, I did manage to stop by the Capsule Show to see some AW11 gear while I am here in Paris. It was good to see some familiar faces so far from home. AW11 doesn’t seem to be much of a departure from what has been happening in the past few seasons, but I still liked what I saw from a bunch of brands at the show.
Taylor Supply continued its good work producing a well made and wearable collection. Jack Spade’s AW11 offerings looked solid with a ton of knits that I wanted to run off with. Gitman Bros. Vintage was having fun with a bunch of crazy prints — including two that you may recognize from your favorite Japonais restaurant. Garbstore had a group of seriously nice pieces on hand that were made in England. Truly beautiful stuff. That Ian Paley sure does make nice clothes. Jamie from London Undercover showed me all of his AW11 umbrellas, bags, scarves and other accessories. When I first met him last year I knew he was capable of great things, something I think is more obvious after seeing all of his stuff in Paris. Don’t sleep on London Undercover.
I’ll be back at it today checking out the rest of brands. So au revoir for now.
352 Rue St Honoré, Paris France | 3:14 pm Friday, January 21st, 2011.
ACL dispatched Mister Mort to Paris to report on Anatomica, one of the city’s best men’s shops. Actually Mort was not dispatched, he went under the guise of a holiday, but we all know he just went to hit the flea markets and take street style photos. Anatomica is nestled on a quiet street right off of the famed Rue de Rivoli and sells an eclectic selection of French, Japanese and American goods, including goods under its own label.
Jonathan S. Paul, a friend of ACL, sent me this post card from Paris. He’s there covering women’s fashion for The Moment blog.
Hello from Paris, where women’s fashion has taken the city hostage. As a magazine editor with mostly men’s fashion on my c.v., I’ll say that I’m enjoying the experience here — and the preponderance of beautiful, decked-out girls. But after two nights of group dinners, drinks and dancing with fashion editors — where I was the only guy at the table — tonight I decided to take some time for myself. That meant: dinner alone, a bottle of Bordeaux — just me and two of my favorite men’s magazines, GQ and Men’s Vogue. I needed a shot of testosterone to clear my head of chiffon and lace. I first started thinking of A Continuous Lean when I read Michael Walker’s piece, “Anything, Anywhere, Anytime” in M.V. Somehow it managed to glamorize the work of cargo pilots (“freight dogs”). I suspect ACL’s readers would appreciate all the aviation jargon (“shooting an approach”) and factoids (shutting down a GM assembly line costs $42,000 per minute), which compensated for the piece’s overwriting and belly-flop ending.