Outerwear | A Continuous Lean.

Bastong’s Starting Seven.

Mar 5th, 2015 | Categories: Menswear, Outerwear | by ACL Editors


When we first covered Eastlogue back in March of last year, we assumed that they were just a fluke – the rare Korean brand that was exceptional enough to make a splash here in the states.

Boy, were we wrong.

If there was one major takeaway from the trade shows this season, it was that the Koreans are ready for primetime. There were enough Korean brands showing this year that it was hard to even keep them straight. Most of them were good, a few were bad, but only two were truly great. One was the aforementioned Eastlogue, (glad to see they weren’t a one-hit-wonder) and the other was Bastong, a four year old brand that has shown in America before, but made the biggest splash this time around.

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The Raccoon Coat | Have Some Fun Dammit!

Jan 6th, 2015 | Categories: History, Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Outerwear, Preppy | by Jake Gallagher


With all the rules and lists and “wear this, don’t wear that” articles that get lobbed our way, it’s easy to forget that clothing should never be taken too seriously. If what you’re wearing doesn’t make you smile, then you’re probably doing something wrong. Sometimes though, we all need to be reminded of this, and so in the spirit of fun, let’s give it up to the ol’ raccoon coat. As a staple of East Coast style that popped up during the roaring twenties, the raccoon coat is ostentatious, gaudy, and downright fun. Undergrads wore them on game day and blue bloods tossed them over their tuxes. The raccoon coat said, “I’m dressed better than and I know it.” Just look at these guys, they’re dressed ridiculous, and they’re loving it. As styles have changed, today that message reads more like, “I’m trying way too hard to be Jay Gatsby,” but at least we have these photos to remind us that if you’re having fun, you can pull off just about anything.


The Ultimate | An Ode to the Polo Coat.

Oct 6th, 2014 | Categories: History, Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Outerwear | by Jake Gallagher


Could it be? Are the leaves already changing? Is the temperature already dropping? Is winter already rounding the corner on us? It feels like summer started just a month ago. Maybe it’s because here in New York, we never had to fully face the syrupy air and searing heat that mark most East Coast summers. But we’ll admit, a mild summer felt like a gift from heavens after last winter’s endless freeze, but it also ensured that those frostbitten memories never quite faded away.

We can still recall mornings where we thought our fingers were going to crack in half, afternoons where seven layers weren’t quite enough, and evenings in which the prospect of building a fire right on the floor of the living room didn’t really seem that insane. This winter experience has us thinking of the weather ahead and considering the purchase of the ultimate overcoat: The Polo Coat.


Future Fabrics | A Technical Textiles Primer.

Mar 18th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Outerwear | by Jake Gallagher


There was a time in the not too distant past when all of our clothes were truly organic, created along a clear path from seed to seam. Nowadays though, our textiles are not so much grown by farmers as they are developed by scientists who continuously search for new ways to make our clothes better, faster, and stronger.

This quest to meld textiles and technology has given us a whole new set of fabrics that continuously push the boundaries on what a garment can achieve, and today these cutting-edge materials have become almost commonplace. Performance wear and sportswear designers now share the common goal of crafting garments that not only stand out, but also out last their competitors, and so with these fabrics moving from REI up to Barneys, we figured we’d give you all a primer on some of the biggest names in high-tech textiles.

Herno Steps Into Its Own.

Mar 14th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in Italy, Outerwear | by Jake Gallagher


Herno’s moment in the sun has been a long time coming. Founded in 1948, Herno has been creating some the world’s finest outerwear for over half a century, and yet the brand has remained in relative obscurity until fairly recently. In fact many of you might have even owned an Herno jacket over the years without ever even knowing it. This is all because historically Herno’s main business has been as a private label producer for renowned brands across the world, including the likes of Ralph Lauren, Jil Sander, Armani, Prada, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton.


Getting Fleeced | The Retro-Tech Revival.

Mar 13th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Outerwear | by Jake Gallagher


The debut of Patagonia’s Legacy collection last year was not merely a triumph for the Ventura, California based brand, it was definitive proof that the so-called heritage movement isn’t going anywhere. To be fair this is not the work wear centric heritage campaign of the mid aughts, which had men in 2007 dressing like coalminers from 1907, rather this current wave is far less stoic, drawing inspiration from the cheeky outdoor labels of the seventies and eighties. While we’re happy to report that neon headbands and technicolor leggings are still a thing of the past (for now), this movement has sparked a major comeback for one of the greatest “technical” fabrics of all time – fleece.

Developed by Malden Mills (which has now been succeeded by the more marketable Polartec) fleece is warm, waterproof, and clocks in weighing less than terrycloth making it about as cutting edge as it gets for the late seventies. In 1981, thanks to a serendipitous partnership with Yvon Chouinard, the owner of a blossoming mountaineering brand by the name of Patagonia (who is a client of Paul + Williams), Malden Mills creation made it’s way into the outdoor world. Over the next few years fleece trickled down to every mall brand in America and before you knew it, that mystique of innovation had worn off. What was once advertised as an advanced fabric for the ages was now more run of the mill than merino and fleece was delegated to the discount bin.


Responding to the Rain | Freeman Seattle

Jan 20th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Outerwear, Seattle | by Jake Gallagher


It rains almost every other day in Seattle, and if trends are any indicator, it’s only going to get worse.

When that threat of rain looms over your head like a Charlie Brown-esque cartoon storm cloud at all times, there’s only two things you can do. You can move, or you can fight back.

The team behind Freeman (no affiliation with New York’s Freeman’s Sporting Club) decided to stand their ground by battling Seattle’s ever-present precipitation with a better raincoat. This meant a jacket that wasn’t just waterproof, but also wouldn’t make someone look like they’re about to scale Kilimanjaro. Sure, a technically advanced jacket might “work,” but it might also be better suited for the ski slopes than a city street.