New York City | A Continuous Lean. - Page 3

Outlier | On Its Own Terms

Dec 4th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

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The clothing industry is founded upon rules. Release this collection when everyone else does. Use these fabrics, not those. Design garments for this season, not that season. Sell it this way, not your way.

The most important thing to know about Outlier is that it took these constraints, and instantly threw them right out the window. Then again, I’m not so sure if partners Abe Burmeister and Tyler Clemens even knew what these unspoken standards were when they founded Outlier in 2008. After all, they never set out to be designers, they merely set out to fill a void in their wardrobes.

When you get swept up in the steady flowing current of fashion, it’s easy to forget that at its core design is about problem solving. Outlier came together when these two men discovered that they shared a common problem. After being introduced by their barista of all people, Burmeister and Clemens realized that they were both attempting to create a garment that they could actually wear on their morning bike commutes without arriving to work looking like they be run over by a truck. Tyler had been working on a shirt, but Abe’s pant project was further along, so the two joined forces and put all their efforts into crafting Outlier’s signature OG Pants.





Classic Ivy Oxfords Straight From Japan.

Dec 3rd, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Japan, Menswear, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

Kamakura Shirts

There is no item more essential to stateside style than the good ol’ oxford cloth button-down. Affectionately known as the OCBD, this shirt has remained an icon of American style for over a century, which is why it only makes sense that arguably the best oxford on the market right now comes straight from Japan. Before any Ivy League pursuits out there try to burn me at the stake (in a sack suit of course) allow me to explain.

When John E. Brooks, the grandson of Brooks Brothers founder, developed the first OCBD based on a shirt he spotted on English polo players in 1896, he wasn’t merely designing another garment to add to his family’s repertoire, he was giving birth to a legend. All legends eventually fade though, and over the years measurements have been updated, fits have been tweaked, factories have changed. The Brooks oxford that you can purchase today might be related to its ancestor, but it’s far from a direct clone.

For most Americans these changes don’t even register, but to those that are interested (or pedantic) enough to care, they’re a deal breaker. Many companies have tried, to varying degrees of success, to recreate the original OCBD over the years, yet none have ever done it as well as Kamakura. The Kamakura story is one that has become curiously familiar over the past few years – a Japanese style aficionado, in this case Yoshio Sadasue, decides to convert his love for the “East Coast look” into faithful reproductions of archetypical Ivy League garments. This tale is unique though, because Sadasue was not merely raised on the Ivy look, he helped to shape this style in Japan through during his time at the legendary (and yet elusive) trad brand VAN Jacket in the sixties and seventies.





Schott Rediscovers Its Roots

Nov 22nd, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in the USA, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

Schott NYC 236 Elizabeth St Front

There was a time not too long ago when if you wanted to go shopping in New York City, all you needed to know was Madison, Soho, or Fifth. Over the past year or so though, as this city’s clothing compulsion has grown into an everlasting rolling boil, these once sharply defined boundaries have become obsolete, transforming Manhattan (for better or for worse) into a veritable urban mall.

Check that mall’s map and you’ll notice that Elizabeth Street in Nolita is now stacked with upstarts and standbys including Alex Mill, Steven Alan and the new Todd Snyder City Gym, among others, forming one of the most respectable blocks in the New York retail scene. Of all the openings on Elizabeth over the past year, few have been more fitting than Schott, one of New York City’s most legendary labels.

The Elizabeth Street store is a homecoming of sorts for Schott, bringing the brand back to its downtown roots, just a stones throw from their original East Broadway headquarters. It was there that brothers Irving and Jack Schott first crafted their eponymous coats back in 1913, and in the hundred years since, Schott has become the preeminent name in American leather jackets. Along the way, the brand has become a vital part of American style as we know it, gracing the backs of icons like James Dean, Marlon Brando, Peter Fonda, The Ramones, and Keith Haring, just to name a few.





Club Monaco’s New Flatiron Flagship

Nov 20th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, New York City, Retail | by Jake Gallagher

CLUB MONACO Opens Global Flagship Store in New York City on Renowned 5th Avenue

Whatever they’re drinking over there at Club Monaco, I want some of it. Throughout the past few years the formerly conventional brand has sprouted into a bona fide menswear Mecca, bringing quality goods and innovative designs to men not just here in America, but across the world. Under the careful guidance of Aaron Levine the vice president for menswear, Club Monaco has positioned themselves as a powerhouse in this industry, shaping the look of menswear in the twenty-first century in a way that few, if any, brands of its scale can. Club Monaco isn’t merely building a brand; it’s building an empire.

This week, Club Monaco unveiled the crown jewel of their flourishing empire, in the form of a renovated flagship store on New York’s Fifth Avenue. The two level location features not only the full breadth of Club’s collections, but also packs a coffee shop and a Strand book store, lending new meaning to the phrase “destination store.” While the upstairs, which houses the women’s line is light and airy, the lower level men’s shop adopts a more brooding atmosphere, complete with dark wood accents and fixtures fit for a New England country house. It’s more about where we are going than where we have been. The shop goes beyond rugged and industrial to strike the just the right note.

CLUB MONACO Opens Global Flagship Store in New York City on Renowned 5th Avenue

CLUB MONACO Opens Global Flagship Store in New York City on Renowned 5th Avenue





Shopping New York | Timberland SoHo.

Oct 30th, 2013 | Categories: New York City, Shopping, Sponsored Post | by ACL Editors

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Walk into Timberland’s Soho flagship and you’ll instantly realize that the storied workwear brand isn’t just selling boots anymore, they’re about the total package. Creating a stylish yet rugged footwear collection has always been Timberland’s bread and butter, but the shop on Broadway in SoHo also houses  the brand’s complete collection, covering everything from their iconic yellow boots, to their more contemporary street-ready pieces. Well-crafted leather coats, forest green backpacks, and military style field jackets grace the tabletops, while Timberland’s line of legendary shoes and boots is prominently displayed along the expansive shoe wall. This includes the handcrafted Timberland Boot Company collection, the Timberland classic boots that have become a symbol of the company and all the other good stuff like the Abington Collection, and the Earthkeepers line. The space is a fitting flagship for a storied brand with style, ruggedness and a distinct point of view.

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Shave and a Haircut at Harry’s.

Oct 27th, 2013 | Categories: Grooming, Men's Stores, New York City | by Michael Williams

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Harry’s, the internet-spawned close-shave-loving German-made razor-blade-kingpins have gotten into the barber shop game with its awesome new outpost on MacDougal Street in SoHo. The question is: does New York need another barber shop? And actually, the answer is: yes, yes it does. While barber shops seem to be appearing on the daily in New York these days (Fellow Barber, the Barbershop on Rivington Street), judging from the massive lines at all of these shops it looks like there is no shortage of customers either. And thankfully, Harry’s has a plan for that too. Word is that this new shop hopes to thwart all that line standing with an online appointment system, something the competition can’t yet offer.

Not content with just making great razors (and other nice shaving gear) and having a great editorial vehicle with the Hotchkiss-helmed Five O’Clock, Harry’s appears to have opened the best merchandised barber in New York and potentially on the planet. In addition to all of the great grooming product from guys like Imperial, Baxter of California and Proraso, there’s also a tightly edited collection of small items like notebooks from Public Supply, footballs from Leatherhead, vintage knives and all stripe of other manly trinket worth owning. There’s even boxers on offer from Sleepy Jones should you (oddly) need to resupply while you get your haircut. It’s a well done affair over there at Harry’s. Not that we were expecting anything less from good guys like them.

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Charting Classic N.Y. | Hawking Hamburgers at J.G. Melon

Oct 19th, 2013 | Categories: Food, Jake Gallagher, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

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A pungent scent has begun to blanket New York, and no I’m not referring to that funky smell coming from the Lower East Side, I’m talking about the alluring aroma of sizzling burgers that’s rising up from griddles all across the city. Between the now numerous Shack Shake stands (respected, but generally overwhelmed with tourists), the East Coast debut of Umami Burger [delicious to the power of the magical fifth sense, but easier to just enjoy in LA), and the “bespoke” burger which can be found at high end (and high ticket) eateries New York has been swept up in full blown burger mania. The great burger debate has now become a relentless pastime for gourmands throughout the five boroughs with no consensus in sight. While you might be harboring your own unwavering patty preference, the common ground on ground beef lies in history, and no burger joint is more fit for the history books (or at least in the Preppy Handbook) than J.G. Melon.