New York City | A Continuous Lean. - Page 3

Goods For the Study | McNally Jackson

Feb 7th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, New York City, Retail | by Jake Gallagher

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If there’s one thing literary types enjoy more than reading books, it’s talking about them. The status of the traditional written word has become a hotly contested debate ever since the advent of e-books and tablets, which, for some, have turned hard-bound texts into little more than decorative ephemera.

For those that still hold steadfast to our papers and pens, McNally Jackson’s Goods for the Study store is an analog oasis in an increasingly digital sea. The shop, which is an off shoot of the McNally Jackson bookstore just around the corner on Prince Street, responds to all these hi-tech textual innovations by reminding us all of the value of merely putting paper to pen. You could say that Goods for the Study is one part practical shop for the city’s never-ending supply of wordsmiths, and one part museum to the written word itself. They layout is reminiscent of the sort of design store you’d expect to find in Tokyo, not on Mulberry Street, and the product range is a clear reflection of this meticulous approach.





Remembering Abercrombie & Fitch for What It Was

Jan 13th, 2014 | Categories: History, Hunting & Fishing, Jake Gallagher, Men's Stores, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

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Despite the shameful mall brand that it has morphed into over the past couple decades, there was a time when Abercrombie & Fitch was great. More than great even, Abercrombie & Fitch was important, a brand that was as integral to our country’s culture of clothing as it was to our culture as a whole. This was a company that outfitted presidents and pioneers, authors and actors, explorers and icons. Today, the Abercrombie & Fitch clientele is decidedly less illustrious, and their products are about as American as a three Yuan bill. I oft wonder how many shoppers even realize that Abercrombie & Fitch were real people to begin with? Then again, it would be wrong to fault anyone for overlooking the real Abercrombie & Fitch. After all the philosophy upon which these two gentleman built their brand is wholly absent from the stores that bear their names today.





The Armoury Hong Kong Arrives In New York.

Dec 17th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, New York City, Retail | by Jake Gallagher

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We New York shoppers are a spoiled sort. It seems that at least once a month a brand new store opens its doors, adding their name to the ever-growing list of boutiques that run from Wall Street to Washington Heights. And yet, it’s never enough. As New Yorkers we constantly clamor for more. More stores. More brands. More, more, more.

The Armoury New York is a store good enough to silence all of these cries.

Positioned on a fittingly tranquil street in TriBeCa, a neighborhood that is more often associated with Scorcese than shopping, TANY is the brand’s first outpost outside of Hong Kong. Although, to simply describe the shop as a New York location for a Chinese-based label would be too elementary. The Armoury is not distinguished by where they’re from, they’re distinguished by where their products are from.





Revisiting The White Horse Tavern.

Dec 14th, 2013 | Categories: Beer, History, Jake Gallagher, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

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As the story goes on the night of November 3, 1953 poet Dylan Thomas stumbled up from the White Horse Tavern to The Chelsea Hotel where he was staying, reached the doorstep, declared “I’ve had 18 straight whiskies. I think that’s the record!” and promptly collapsed. A few days later, only after another visit to the White Horse, Thomas was dead.

Whether or not you believe Thomas super-human, or should I say sub-human, level of consumption, it is quite fitting that the West Village’s most iconic beatnik bar played such an integral role in the Welsh poet’s demise. For, it was the beats of the fifties and sixties that would come to define the White Horse’s history by drinking their nights (and quite often their days) in this bohemian haven on Hudson Street.





In the Books | Pop Up Flea New York City 2013

Dec 10th, 2013 | Categories: New York City, Pop Up Flea | by Michael Williams

This past weekend in SoHo marked the 7th ever installment of the Pop Up Flea, an event that has grown from a small space and 10 of our designer friends to a massive loft with over sixty different brands. While the scale of PUF has grown, the spirit of the event remains the same.

The idea that Randy Goldberg and I came up with back in 2009 remains very much intact: to get a bunch of good people and well-made things all together in one room. Could the 14,000 people who came to Pop Up Flea be wrong? Many thanks to all of the vendors who make Pop Up Flea possible with their hard work and creativity. This has been a big year for us after successfully taking PUF to London and holding our 6th New York City event. Next year is going to be even bigger with more events here as well as internationally. Stay posted for more on that.





Outlier | On Its Own Terms

Dec 4th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

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The clothing industry is founded upon rules. Release this collection when everyone else does. Use these fabrics, not those. Design garments for this season, not that season. Sell it this way, not your way.

The most important thing to know about Outlier is that it took these constraints, and instantly threw them right out the window. Then again, I’m not so sure if partners Abe Burmeister and Tyler Clemens even knew what these unspoken standards were when they founded Outlier in 2008. After all, they never set out to be designers, they merely set out to fill a void in their wardrobes.

When you get swept up in the steady flowing current of fashion, it’s easy to forget that at its core design is about problem solving. Outlier came together when these two men discovered that they shared a common problem. After being introduced by their barista of all people, Burmeister and Clemens realized that they were both attempting to create a garment that they could actually wear on their morning bike commutes without arriving to work looking like they be run over by a truck. Tyler had been working on a shirt, but Abe’s pant project was further along, so the two joined forces and put all their efforts into crafting Outlier’s signature OG Pants.





Classic Ivy Oxfords Straight From Japan.

Dec 3rd, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Japan, Menswear, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

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There is no item more essential to stateside style than the good ol’ oxford cloth button-down. Affectionately known as the OCBD, this shirt has remained an icon of American style for over a century, which is why it only makes sense that arguably the best oxford on the market right now comes straight from Japan. Before any Ivy League pursuits out there try to burn me at the stake (in a sack suit of course) allow me to explain.

When John E. Brooks, the grandson of Brooks Brothers founder, developed the first OCBD based on a shirt he spotted on English polo players in 1896, he wasn’t merely designing another garment to add to his family’s repertoire, he was giving birth to a legend. All legends eventually fade though, and over the years measurements have been updated, fits have been tweaked, factories have changed. The Brooks oxford that you can purchase today might be related to its ancestor, but it’s far from a direct clone.

For most Americans these changes don’t even register, but to those that are interested (or pedantic) enough to care, they’re a deal breaker. Many companies have tried, to varying degrees of success, to recreate the original OCBD over the years, yet none have ever done it as well as Kamakura. The Kamakura story is one that has become curiously familiar over the past few years – a Japanese style aficionado, in this case Yoshio Sadasue, decides to convert his love for the “East Coast look” into faithful reproductions of archetypical Ivy League garments. This tale is unique though, because Sadasue was not merely raised on the Ivy look, he helped to shape this style in Japan through during his time at the legendary (and yet elusive) trad brand VAN Jacket in the sixties and seventies.