Menswear | A Continuous Lean. - Page 2

The Original Ugly Holiday Sweater.

Dec 23rd, 2014 | Categories: History, Jake Gallagher, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

FairIsle

“Who let that guy in?”

If we look at winter as one giant holiday party, then fair isle is the perennial gatecrasher. Tweed? Corduroy? Flannel? Sure, they’re on the list. But fair isle? Who let that guy in? Yes, fair isle has its heritage, and the tiny Scottish island from which it derives should certainly be proud of how their signature style has gone, but I for one am I surprised by the endurance of fair isle. It’s both goofy and garish in equal measure. Certain fair isles appear as outdated as your grandmother’s curtains, while others can be as blindingly bright as overdone Christmas lights. So really what is it about fair isle that brings us back to this absurd pattern year after year? It’s the green-bean casserole of the knitwear world – a reliable seasonal stalwart that will always have a place at the table. It’s not the best, most attractive winter pattern, but it just wouldn’t be winter without it.





Get to Know Australia’s Most Stylish Tailor.

Dec 19th, 2014 | Categories: A Conversation With, Jake Gallagher, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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One of the most telling facts about Patrick Johnson, the Australian tailor behind P. Johnson, comes well after our interview has officially concluded. Johnson is in New York for his brand’s first official U.S. trunk show, and as we’re exiting the Bowery Hotel on the Friday before the show starts, he tells me that during his younger years he had trained to become a winemaker, only to learn that he had a serious allergy to a key ingredient in wine. It’s the sort of discovery that would have crippled a lesser man, and yet Patrick tells me this story with a wide grin on his face. In fact he says just about everything with that grin on his face. By the time Patrick learned of his allergy he had already found a new passion, clothing. Winemaking is a career, but it’s also a labor of love, much like tailoring. And so he traded one passion pursuit for another, becoming the most famous name in Australian menswear, and growing his eponymous label from one small tailoring shop into a global business, one that is large enough to require regular visits to America, with a permanent New York City shop on the way.

ACL: You’re pretty established in Australia, what made you guys want to start looking towards the states?

PJ: Well, the Australian market is quite a small market. We obviously enjoy it there, but it’s pretty small. We have a lot of clients who live in America, either Americans or ex-pats, and so we decided after a while that we’d start showing here, basically just to grow a bit. To grow inside of Australia, from a business point of view, we’d have to change our aesthetic a little bit and I didn’t want to do that. So yeah, just client demand and a bit of an adventure, get us outside of our comfort zone a bit.





The Brands from Scotland Yarn.

Dec 17th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in Scotland, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

Johnstons

“Scotland: The land of a thousand knitters. Or at least, we used to be.”

It might not be the most appealing tourism slogan, but the truth rarely is. With cheaper prices and shorter lead-times lying further to the East, countless brands have exported their knitwear production to Asia, leaving many Scottish factories without enough orders to stay afloat. The knitwear industry reaches back to the late 1700’s, when the first framing guides arrived in Scotland allowing craftspeople to churn out their fine knits at a faster pace.  Scotland once had over two thousand knitwear manufacturers, today that figure is closer to a couple hundred, if that.





Implements of Winter (Hand) Survival.

Dec 15th, 2014 | Categories: Accessories, Jake Gallagher, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

ShackletonGlove

During Ernest Shackleton’s first expedition to Antarctica from 1901-1903, he and his crew experienced scurvy, snow blindness, and of course frostbite. We’ll never truly be able to understand just how bad things got for team Shackleton (and they got very bad, proof here), but we will be damned if there aren’t days where our fingers feel like they could just snap off at any moment. Yes, it’s hyperbolic to compare our average icy conditions to Antarctic extremes, but we don’t think many of us are venturing to the south pole anytime soon, so for those of us that brave the standard “below-freezing-but-still-not-cold-enough-to-turn-your-thumb-black” weather here are some gloves to keep your fingers free from frost this winter.





Previewing Pop Up Flea 2014.

Dec 10th, 2014 | Categories: Made in the USA, Menswear, Pop Up Flea | by ACL Editors

This week, we hit the streets (with Drones-in-hand thanks to our crack director Kellen Dengler) to give you a taste of what to expect from this weekend’s Pop Up Flea here in NYC. We visited with a handful of local friends and PUF vendors to see the awesomeness that they have planned for this weekend’s event. Be sure to come by the Met Pavilion to #ShopSmall this weekend to experience PUF in its full seventy-plus vendor glory.

#PUFNYC

125 West 18th Street (nr. 6th Ave)
New York City

Friday, Dec 12th: 3pm to 8pm
Saturday, Dec 13th: 11am to 7pm
Sunday, Dec 14th: 12pm to 6pm

Free Entry. Open to the public.





Barbour’s Many Bedfellows.

Dec 9th, 2014 | Categories: Collaborations, Jake Gallagher, Made in England, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

BarbourNortin

Barbour’s been busy. One hundred twenty years after they were founded in South Shields, England, Barbour’s creative output is as high as ever. Not only does the brand’s main line now consist of a handful of collections, including heritage, sporting, and cycling, but the company continues to widen the reach, bringing new collaborations into the fold with each passing season. These collaborations are as varied and interesting as Barbour’s audience, ranging from a mammoth global corporation like Adidas, down to smaller shops such as Soto Berlin. Our count stands at seven collaborations thus far this year, but considering their track record, we wouldn’t be surprised to see Barbour’s collaborations climb into the double digits for 2015.

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Barbour x Norton & Sons Heritage Collection





Coming Home | Pop Up Flea NYC

Dec 8th, 2014 | Categories: Menswear, New York City, Pop Up Flea | by ACL Editors

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After traveling around the world these past few months, next weekend The Pop Up Flea lands back home in New York City just in time for the holidays. This is the grand poobah of all The Pop Up Flea’s, with over seventy brands  joining us at the Metropolitan Pavilion in Chelsea for our largest event ever. From five year vets like Billykirk, Alexander Olch, and Tanner Goods to first-timers Waltzing Matilda, Garrett Wade, Tudor and Askov Finlayson we’ll have all the finely crafted curiosities that you’ve come to expect from team PUF since 2009. Adding to the New York event this year will an indigo dying station from Buaisou, which we first introduced earlier this year in Japan and many more options for one-of-a-kind finds. This is the big one, so don’t miss it. More info and the complete brand list after the jump.

#PUFNYC

125 West 18th Street (nr. 6th Ave)
New York City

Friday, Dec 12th: 3pm to 8pm
Saturday, Dec 13th: 11am to 7pm
Sunday, Dec 14th: 12pm to 6pm

Free Entry. Open to the public.