Seeing Isaia’s fall collection is one of the things that makes the trek to Florence worth it. The Neapolitan tailor never ceases to impress when it comes to shape and texture. The styling and strong sense of color also serve as some of the most inspirational corners of the menswear summit that is Pitti Uomo. The brand’s AW13 collection is no let down in this regard. There’s a lot going on in a relatively small selection of items, but the spirit remains and Isaia continues to delight with its willingness to know itself and be the brand it wants to be, not the brand other people want it to be.

Like most of the Isaia clothing in the past, this collection draws its inspiration from Naples, specifically from Januarius (the city’s patron saint) and the Naples Cathedral. The details of these inspirations show up in prints and in other small elements of the collection. The photos here give a nice sense of the fabrics, styling and feelings you can look forward for the coming fall.

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There aren’t many brands that seem to understand how men want to shop. It doesn’t seem to me to be the most difficult thing to figure out, but it is rare that I find a place that captures the desired environment that, as a guy, just feels right. If I were to do a case study on how to do retail for men I would undoubtedly turn to Dunhill and their tremendous retail “homes” as the shining example of how to get things right.

Last year I stopped in on the Dunhill home in Shanghai, which is about as enchanting as a store can be. Then recently I paid a visit to the brand’s flagship London property, Bourdon House. It’s worth making a detour for even just for a look around and a cup of tea in the courtyard cafe. It’s good to know that someone out there is willing to be logical and do menwear retail right.

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The best new thing I saw at Pitti is Officine Generale, a collection that was actually launched last January. Sure, that doesn’t technically make it brand new (the SS13 collection, though, is just landing at H.W. Carter & Sons in Brooklyn, Unionmade in S.F. + more), but when thinking of clothing brands, the second season is still technically new, especially by Pitti’s standards, where things tend to move very slowly and deliberately, much like a Neapolitan dinner. In the end, Pitti’s predictability is actually what makes the show charming. Yet, it’s those unexpected discoveries, like the classic French styling of Officine Generale, that keep us coming back to Florence twice a year (the bistecca fiorentina doesn’t hurt either).

The collection is inspired by military clothing and classic tailoring, and takes elements from both without going crazy. My feeling: a little goes a long way. This collection is positioned perfectly for anyone who wants to dress comfortably and stylishly without screaming where he comes from. Wearing these clothes, you could go anywhere and be from anywhere. Options are not limited. It’s a concept that’s easy for me to embrace. Options are good.

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What if I was to ask you: “What city do you think has the finest men’s shoe store in America?” One would automatically assume to hear the following cities (probably in this order): 1. New York, 2. Boston 3. Chicago. Logic would suggest cities that have strong business communities with lots of banks and other serious institutions where men wear suits and make serious decisions. What if I was to tell you that the best men’s footwear store in the United States is in Honolulu?

“No fucking way.” Would be your response.

Well, add a dollar to the swear jar, because the best men’s shoe store in the U.S. (if not the world) is in the Royal Hawaiian shopping center in Waikiki, Its name is Leather Soul and it will make your head explode.

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Since the beginning, Batten Sportswear has been a collection I have really bought into. Shinya Hasegawa, the man behind the clothes, has always inspired me with his dedication and commitment to go off on his own and put a stake in the ground. I’ve seen Batten grow from a one man operation with zero stores and the tiniest of offices on 37th Street to a slightly less tiny office with a production person, a showroom and dozens of stores in the matter of a few seasons. It’s been cool to see Batten develop and grow, it is especially great because every season I am impressed with the product. I like the fact that Batten refines and tweaks stuff I already love like 60/40 jackets, bags and anoraks. It isn’t trying to reinvent anything per se, Batten makes good things better by tweaking the fits and adding in little details that make the clothes special.

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The knitwear from Saint James has remained much the same since 1848. The colors, patterns and materials all draw directly back to what the company was doing over a century ago. It’s the French brand’s consistency that is the allure. This week though, there’s a ripple of newness in the storied company’s seas as a special capsule collection from France’s Saint James arrives exclusively at Barneys New York. The small knitwear range consists of eight pieces that were inspired by a take on classic-American-sportswear-meets-Brittany with elements like the Ivy League shall collar and the Henley shirt mixed with traditional French design details like Breton stripes. Rest assured, all still made in the company’s factory in Normandy.

The new styles build upon the original simplicity of two favorite Saint James classics, the striped side-buttoned fisherman sweater, “Matelot”, and the ecru-navy long sleeve jersey, “Meridien” and sticks to the traditional Saint James color palate of red, navy and natural. Everything was designed by Martin Carvajal, who previously worked at Freeman’s Sporting Club. I have to say, Martin did a good job of making it different without, well, fucking it up. It’s about as adventurous as I would really want to see Saint James get, which basically says to me that this is a success. It’s like my old man says: “change is Bad.” In this case, a slight change is welcomed and even appreciated.

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There’s no denying the good things that are happening right now at Club Monaco. With the men’s collection in the careful hands of Aaron Levine, the product has evolved in such a good way. The fall 2012 collection (seen in the look book here) is both wearable and interesting at the same time. And it finally has a distinct personality. It represents a balance not often found in a world where everyone wants everything. Pleasingly, in this case, men actually get it.

Working with Club Monaco over the past two years (for the record; full disclosure and all that good stuff) I’ve been lucky enough to have a front row seat for this entire collection. I’m excited about how things turned out, which is why I am sharing with you — not for any other reason other than the fact that I am proud of what Aaron has done and because I selfishly want to own almost all of these clothes.

It has been great to see Aaron infuse the brand with his relentless love of product, of fabric and menswear in general. He’s a mad man when it comes to this stuff. I often found myself just standing back and smiling as Aaron showed me clothes he was making or pictures that inspired him or whatever his newest obsession was. He’s a man that found his calling and it feels great to be around. There’s something that can be said about knowing what you want to do and then actually doing it. There’s an empowering aspect to that, which I’m guessing is why this collection turned out so good.

The rest of the fall 2012 looks after the jump.

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