Menswear | A Continuous Lean. - Page 2

Classic Ivy Oxfords Straight From Japan.

Dec 3rd, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Japan, Menswear, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

Kamakura Shirts

There is no item more essential to stateside style than the good ol’ oxford cloth button-down. Affectionately known as the OCBD, this shirt has remained an icon of American style for over a century, which is why it only makes sense that arguably the best oxford on the market right now comes straight from Japan. Before any Ivy League pursuits out there try to burn me at the stake (in a sack suit of course) allow me to explain.

When John E. Brooks, the grandson of Brooks Brothers founder, developed the first OCBD based on a shirt he spotted on English polo players in 1896, he wasn’t merely designing another garment to add to his family’s repertoire, he was giving birth to a legend. All legends eventually fade though, and over the years measurements have been updated, fits have been tweaked, factories have changed. The Brooks oxford that you can purchase today might be related to its ancestor, but it’s far from a direct clone.

For most Americans these changes don’t even register, but to those that are interested (or pedantic) enough to care, they’re a deal breaker. Many companies have tried, to varying degrees of success, to recreate the original OCBD over the years, yet none have ever done it as well as Kamakura. The Kamakura story is one that has become curiously familiar over the past few years – a Japanese style aficionado, in this case Yoshio Sadasue, decides to convert his love for the “East Coast look” into faithful reproductions of archetypical Ivy League garments. This tale is unique though, because Sadasue was not merely raised on the Ivy look, he helped to shape this style in Japan through during his time at the legendary (and yet elusive) trad brand VAN Jacket in the sixties and seventies.





Club Monaco’s New Flatiron Flagship

Nov 20th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, New York City, Retail | by Jake Gallagher

CLUB MONACO Opens Global Flagship Store in New York City on Renowned 5th Avenue

Whatever they’re drinking over there at Club Monaco, I want some of it. Throughout the past few years the formerly conventional brand has sprouted into a bona fide menswear Mecca, bringing quality goods and innovative designs to men not just here in America, but across the world. Under the careful guidance of Aaron Levine the vice president for menswear, Club Monaco has positioned themselves as a powerhouse in this industry, shaping the look of menswear in the twenty-first century in a way that few, if any, brands of its scale can. Club Monaco isn’t merely building a brand; it’s building an empire.

This week, Club Monaco unveiled the crown jewel of their flourishing empire, in the form of a renovated flagship store on New York’s Fifth Avenue. The two level location features not only the full breadth of Club’s collections, but also packs a coffee shop and a Strand book store, lending new meaning to the phrase “destination store.” While the upstairs, which houses the women’s line is light and airy, the lower level men’s shop adopts a more brooding atmosphere, complete with dark wood accents and fixtures fit for a New England country house. It’s more about where we are going than where we have been. The shop goes beyond rugged and industrial to strike the just the right note.

CLUB MONACO Opens Global Flagship Store in New York City on Renowned 5th Avenue

CLUB MONACO Opens Global Flagship Store in New York City on Renowned 5th Avenue





Shiprock Santa Fe: Southwestern Style At Its Best.

Nov 3rd, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Vintage | by Jake Gallagher

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What we call “southwestern style” no longer belongs to the southwest. Take a lap through any department store, or for that matter any mall, in America and you’ll be sure to find everything from beacon printed overshirts, to moccasin style loafers, to densely patterned “Navajo” blankets. Once unmistakable signs of authentic southwestern style, these garments now bear “Made in China” labels, faux vintage patina, and questionable quality.

Yet, the question remains, what is happening to the actual southwest? That answer lies in a visit to Santa Fe, New Mexico’s Shiprock Gallery, a shop that’s as authentic as it is innovative. Founded by Jed Foutz a fifth generation art dealer over two decades ago, Shiprock is a modern extension of Jed’s family’s heritage as traders on a Navajo reservation. The gallery deftly places that well-known trading post style alongside an eclectic selection of wares from across not just the region, but also the world.

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Get Your Hands Dirty | Freemans Sporting Club Fall 2013

Nov 1st, 2013 | Categories: Menswear, Style | by Michael Williams

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The gents at Freemans Sporting Club sent over the first look at its new fall 2013 collection that has just landed in the shop. (Spoiler alert: it’s pretty fucking great.) Over the past several years the line has quietly and steadily grown and slowly taken full control of our closets. (Resistance is futile.) While the product is great all year-long, FSC especially shines in the fall and this offering is certainly proof that good-looking, well-made and considered clothing can take you anywhere — at least until your truck breaks down.





Made To Last | North Sea Clothing

Oct 30th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in England, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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It’s a fine line between being “authentic” and simply playing dress up. Yet, if there’s ever been a label that’s hit that golden sweet spot between these two concepts it’s England’s North Sea Clothing. While we’ve followed and worn North Sea for some time, we got another chance to marvel at the brand’s bullet proof collection first hand in London a few weeks back at the Pop Up Flea and it was a reminder as to just how good this stuff is.





Workwear Revamped Right | Over All Master Cloth

Oct 25th, 2013 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear, Work Wear | by Jake Gallagher

 

Chester Coat (Heavy Canvas)-3

One of the most interesting stories of the past couple years has been the unexpected marriage of streetwear and workwear, two once disparate styles that now seem to butt up against each other at every possible opportunity. This relationship has lead to many unlikely collaborations and collections, but few, if any, have been executed as masterfully as Carhartt Work in Progresses’ new Over All Master Cloth line. The collection, which was conceived by Carhartt’s well-known European licensee, and designed by a former head designer of Supreme, takes the centurion workwear brand into uncharted territory.

You won’t find any camel colored zip-ups here, as those signature duck canvas jackets have been replaced by Harris Tweed chore jackets, and Loro Piana suits. The traditional workwear look remains, if only as the foundation for O.A.M.C., which uses Carhartt classics as a starting point before delving into the world of high-end streetwear. The result is a collection in which thick-soled derby’s are constructed out of Bison leather, chore jackets are crafted in dark canvas colors, oxfords are affixed with contrasting shooting patches, and sport coats are cut from duck camo wools.

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Patagonia: Going its Own Way.

Sep 27th, 2013 | Categories: California, Menswear | by Michael Williams

Forge

A few months ago I took a trip to visit Patagonia to get a look at the Ventura-based brand’s new Legacy Collection capsule. I also got a chance to see a lot of awesome archival Patagonia stuff, which was worth the trip right there. But what I really learned that day (which I spoke a bit about in my previous post about the company), was how thought-provoking it was to see the Patagonia culture first hand.  Being there and learning about the company’s values pushed me to think long and hard about my own values and to think about how a company can find success through two simple ideas: 1. Be committed to your values (act accordingly) and 2. Doing things differently can be the key to success.

These aren’t the only keys to Patagonia’s success, but they are the things that stand out to me. While I went to Ventura specifically to look at a clothing collection, I left with much more than just photos of the archival products (though that stuff is great as you can see below). I walked away with my mind racing, thinking about how to live my life, how to run a business and how to generally be happy. This year I have also spent time at Nike, Dreamworks, Google and various other large and small companies — all the while thinking about the role a company’s culture can impact personal success and overall happiness. Having worked for myself for the past 9 years I’ve pushed hard to build a successful professional life. At the same time, I’ve worked hard to take the time to actually enjoy my life and be happy. This was possible sometimes, and at other times it was completely impossible. But all of this energy directed at finding happiness and success at work and outside of work made be a strong believer in the importance of a positive culture.

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