Menswear | A Continuous Lean.

Wes Anderson and the Importance of the Corduroy Suit.

Mar 1st, 2015 | Categories: ACL Endorses, Menswear, Movies, Suiting | by ACL Editors

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Men’s style writers love heralding the importance of having a uniform – a signature set of clothes that you personally can own, day in, day out. In theory, most men would agree that this is a great concept, but what’s interesting is that so few of us actually put the uniform to use. Try to think of a man, any man who has a set uniform. Not easy is it? For us, there is one man who always springs to mind when we think “uniform,” and that’s Wes Anderson. He might not always wear corduroy suits, but he certainly pulls them on (and for that matter pulls them off) quite a lot.

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A True People’s Champ.

Feb 24th, 2015 | Categories: History, Menswear, Sports, Style | by ACL Editors

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In the ring Muhammed Ali was a monster. He would grab hold of each match, dancing his way around the ring until just the right moment and then BAM, his fist, as big as a loaf of bread and as weighty as Thor’s hammer, would shoot forth so as to inflict the maximum amount of damage upon his adversary.

Despite his brutal blows, Ali was not fueled by anger. Fighting was his job, and he was damn well good at it. But outside the ring, he was known for his big personality – a man who could be caring and controversial in equal measure. Never one to hold back, Ali would often play to the camera, as seen in his famous Esquire cover and photo shoot with The Beatles. He was also a pretty sharp dresser, especially for a guy of his size. Ali wasn’t so much a gentle giant, as he was a giant gentleman, which is why his battle with Parkinson’s disease, and his subsequent deteriorating state later in life, has been so painful to watch. And so it’s best to remember Ali as he was in his glorious heyday – as the true people’s champ.

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A Signal Through the Noise of NYFW

Feb 23rd, 2015 | Categories: Fashion Week, Jake Gallagher, Menswear, New York City, NYFW | by Jake Gallagher

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You’ve all seen the Instagrams. You’ve all read the tweets. You’ve maybe even looked through a collection or two. That’s right, Fashion Week has blown through New York City like a down-filled, blanket-wrapped, wax coated tornado. For anyone with even a remote interest in men’s clothing (which if you’re reading this site, is probably you) NYFW is an unavoidable cacophony of runway looks, street style images, and blurry Instagram photos. To be quite honest though, most of what goes on during this week has little to no relevance for the average guy. Many of the labels that show here in New York skew toward the avant garde and even those designer whose names you might actually recognize often show conceptual looks which will never make it stores, let alone your closet. So in an effort to skim the fat, we bring you our favorite fits from this year’s New York Fashion Week. And by favorite, we mean the ones which might actually inspire or inform your clothing purchases for the year ahead.  Enjoy our simply presented signal through the NYFW noise.





Not So Standard.

Feb 11th, 2015 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Japan, Menswear, Shopping, Style | by Jake Gallagher

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For many Japanese brands, it’s not enough to only have one line. Companies like Beams, Ships, and United Arrows love to stack up sub-brands and diffusion lines like a hastily made parfait of complementary aesthetics, which each layer bleeding over into the offer. The differences between two given brands under the same umbrella can often be tough to discern – one might be workwear-meets-streetwear, while the other might be streetwear-meets-workwear. It all tends to get lost in translation. Fortunately for Western audiences though, Japanese brands are also known for being masters of visual merchandising. Often times each label will get it’s own lookbook or ad campaign, which is (in most cases) the closest that we’ll ever come to actually interacting with these brands, as many of them are not widely available outside of Japan. This no longer rings as true for Beams and United Arrows, which have recently upped their American and European stockists, but it is still quite true for Journal Standard, another multi-label Japanese brand.

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Gitman Printage | Gitman’s Greatest Hits

Feb 9th, 2015 | Categories: A Conversation With, Jake Gallagher, Made in the USA, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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Not since the 1960′s have there been this many American based shirt brands. And yet, despite the variety of labels attached to them, never have so many shirts looked exactly alike.

We don’t mean to be overly critical, we do understand that there are only so many mills a shirt company can buy from, only so many different color combinations they can choose from, only so many ways they can reconfigure a plaid or a paisley or a polka dot. And of course, any company attempting to create clothing in America deserves our support. We just wish more companies would approach their design like Gitman Vintage does.





Why We Should All Respect Hiroshi Fujiwara.

Feb 8th, 2015 | Categories: Design, Jake Gallagher, Japan, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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Hiroshi Fujiwara has a resume that most designers could only dream of. In his thirty-plus year career the Fragment Design founder has worked with Nike, Starbucks, Stussy, Neighborhood, Casio, Carhartt, Beats, and Disney. Oh wait, did I say in his career? Because that was just in the past year. Pull back a bit further and you’ll find names like Oakley, Cole Haan, Clarks, Sacai, Visvim, Sophnet, Converse, Levi’s, and Martin Guitar. And that’s just his work as a designer. Fujiwara is also an accomplished musician who has collaborated with Janis Ian and Eric Clapton. Oh, and if that’s not impressive enough he appeared in Lost in Translation.





A Victory for American Made Sneakers.

Feb 5th, 2015 | Categories: Footwear, Jake Gallagher, Made in the USA, Menswear, Shoes | by Jake Gallagher

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Victory Sportswear might just be the most important new sneaker brand out there, but there’s actually nothing new about them. We had never heard of Victory until we spotted them at this year’s Capsule trade show, but we were immediately taken by the brand’s suede and mesh trainers which look like a cross between something Carl Lewis might’ve worn at the ’84 Olympics and a pair of sneakers you might find at an orthopedic store.

Truthfully though, it wasn’t the look of the shoes that got us excited, but rather the fact that they were made in America. The only other brand making shoes in America right now is New Balance, and just like them, Victory produces their sneakers in New England (NB in Maine, Victory in Massachusetts). In fact, Victory has made its entire collection in its Massachusetts factory since the company was founded in 1980′s. The question is, where has it been this whole time? And how are we not surprised that it was Daiki and the Engineered Garments team that has unearthed them for our collective pleasure.