Made In Italy | A Continuous Lean. - Page 2

Further Assessments | Salvatore Piccolo AW13

Mar 19th, 2013 | Categories: Further Assessments, Made in Italy, Menswear, Napoli, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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This is the room I most want to see in every season at Pitti Uomo. Piccolo is the master of color and texture. He mixes in English, American and Japanese with Italian style in the most simplistic and natural way. He’s also mastered of fabric if you were wondering. Not only that, he’s easy-going and affable as a person, which makes the visit even that much more enjoyable. He’s always wants to tell you about the process and the little details that make his clothing so special. It started as custom shirts all made in his bottega in Napoli. Later it evolved to ties, then on to jackets and now he makes handsome suits as well. The guy is a unstoppable.

Barneys brings it to America and Savatore comes to New York a few times a year to work with his custom clients, but when you see everything in once place like at Pitti, the presence of the collection overwhelms. It’s a feeling of mixed joy and pain. Happiness that you get to see it. Sadness that you can’t just pack it all up in trunks and ship it back directly to your closet where you will systematically deploy it to become the world’s best dressed man. [SALVATORE PICCOLO]

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Know Thyself | ISAIA AW13

Jan 27th, 2013 | Categories: Italy, Made in Italy, Menswear, Napoli, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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Seeing Isaia’s fall collection is one of the things that makes the trek to Florence worth it. The Neapolitan tailor never ceases to impress when it comes to shape and texture. The styling and strong sense of color also serve as some of the most inspirational corners of the menswear summit that is Pitti Uomo. The brand’s AW13 collection is no let down in this regard. There’s a lot going on in a relatively small selection of items, but the spirit remains and Isaia continues to delight with its willingness to know itself and be the brand it wants to be, not the brand other people want it to be.

Like most of the Isaia clothing in the past, this collection draws its inspiration from Naples, specifically from Januarius (the city’s patron saint) and the Naples Cathedral. The details of these inspirations show up in prints and in other small elements of the collection. The photos here give a nice sense of the fabrics, styling and feelings you can look forward for the coming fall.

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Speaking the Same Language | Salvatore Piccolo SS13

Sep 20th, 2012 | Categories: Made in Italy, Pitti Uomo June 2012 | by Michael Williams

The best part of seeing a new season’s worth of collections is the chance to obsess over the Salvatore Piccolo line. Being a good American and not speaking any Italian (the good American thing = sarcasm) and Salvatore speaking only a tiny bit of English, we focus our communication on shirts and the process of making them.

I’ve covered the last three collections from Piccolo without fail. For whatever reason woven shirts keep my attention and the stuff he turns out always impresses me. This season in addition to the all hand-made casual and dress shirt offerings, Salvatore Piccolo is introducing a small collection of sport jackets for spring. The silhouettes for the jackets are slim but not crazy —made to be wearable and in beautiful patterns and fabrics.





Made by Hand | Federico Polidori

Jun 13th, 2012 | Categories: Craft, Made in Italy | by Michael Williams

Tucked into an easy-to-miss shop near the Pantheon in Rome is leather goods maker Federico Polidori. Inside you will find a small selection of hand made items for purchase, but what Polidori really specializes in are beautiful custom made bags, holsters and all sorts of other high quality leather items. The shop is more workshop than retail space, with Federico’s workbench taking up a good amount of space in the main room. When I walked in I was instantly captivated by the product and started to bug the man with questions. He was gracious and patient with my questions, and my very limited grasp of the Italian language.

While it wasn’t easy for Federico or his wife Roberta to understand me, it was easy to see that the bags, wallets, belts and other items they make are very high quality. Leaving without buying something would have been criminal.





Dreaming of Dress Shirts | Salvatore Piccolo

Apr 4th, 2012 | Categories: Made in Italy, Pitti Uomo January 2012, Shirts | by Michael Williams

Last night I had a dream about hand made shirting. I’m not kidding, I remember I could see the beautifully imperfect shoulder stitches vividly. This is probably the strangest confession I have ever made here. You know when you are dreaming about shirts, you might have some issues. Instead of seeking help, I think I need to go buy a bunch of Salvatore Piccolo shirts. Honestly, that’s just a dream too, because these shirts ain’t cheap. And the way I blow through wovens, I don’t know if that is the best use of my money. All that aside, if I were still dreaming I would buy one of each, because I don’t seem to encounter nicer shirts very often.





No Shortage of Color or Texture | MP by Massimo Piombo

Mar 23rd, 2012 | Categories: Clothing, Made in Italy, Menswear, Pitti Uomo January 2012 | by Michael Williams

There’s a sign outside of one of my favorite restaurants in New York that justifies its quirky existence with the following statement: “You either get it or you don’t.” I think the same can be said for Massimo Piombo’s new MP by Massimo Piombo collection. It is probably safe to say that many an ACL reader is not going to be up for the quirkiness or price tag of this new line. It is also presumable to consider that I would not be pulling these rigs verbatim, but the spirit of Piombo will certainly be my guide, and I am definitely a believer in Mr. Piombo when it comes to clothing.

Not content with having one beautifully made and insanely designed collection, Piombo got together with a little Neapolitan brand called Kiton to launch this new high-end label. The fabrics included in the range are sourced from all over the world, from Shetland to Nepal, the clothing is made almost entirely by hand (by Kiton) in Italy, and there is no chance of missing the fact that the color stories patterns are distinctly Piombo.





Brunello Cucinelli AW12 | Life Lessons and Beautiful Clothes

Feb 20th, 2012 | Categories: Made in Italy, Menswear, Pitti Uomo January 2012 | by Michael Williams

If you spend any amount of time at Italian clothing trade shows (or reading blogs about the things seen at Italian clothing tradeshows) you start to get a complex about your ability to dress yourself — at least I do. When I go to Pitti I start to wonder about my comparative ability to layer, choose colors and to mix textures. It’s a humbling exorcise in general, but my perceived personal style deficiencies are provoked most inside the Brunello Cucinelli stand.