Made In Italy | A Continuous Lean.

Impeccable Footwear From Diemme.

Mar 27th, 2014 | Categories: Footwear, Jake Gallagher, Made in Italy, Shoes | by Jake Gallagher

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Like a Wes Anderson movie, the Diemme story does not have one true main character, rather it’s an ensemble cast, that comes together from across the world to create Diemme’s unique line of casual footwear. The shoes are manufactured in Montebulluna, Italy by Calzaturificio Diemme, with the help of two design and sales companies, Blender Agency from Norway, and GMT Tokyo in Japan, as well as MnO International, a Swedish distributor. At the heart of the Diemme project lies two brothers, Dennis and Maico Signor, who have been manufacturing boots under the Calzaturificio Diemme name since 1992.





Herno Steps Into Its Own.

Mar 14th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in Italy, Outerwear | by Jake Gallagher

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Herno’s moment in the sun has been a long time coming. Founded in 1948, Herno has been creating some the world’s finest outerwear for over half a century, and yet the brand has remained in relative obscurity until fairly recently. In fact many of you might have even owned an Herno jacket over the years without ever even knowing it. This is all because historically Herno’s main business has been as a private label producer for renowned brands across the world, including the likes of Ralph Lauren, Jil Sander, Armani, Prada, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton.

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Wants & Desires | Eidos Spring Summer 2014

Sep 20th, 2013 | Categories: Made in Italy, Menswear | by Michael Williams

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Launched this fall, Eidos is a recent addition to the Isaia family. The collection represents much of the Italian style that has ascended Isaia to cult status among those with an appreciation for fine tailoring. Though similar to its older sibling, the collection is focused more on a younger guy. Not to say that the target is young per se, Eidos is for those that love what Isaia offers in terms of style, but hasn’t necessarily graduated to that level quite yet.

The good news is, Eidos is priced below main-line Isaia and there’s not huge a sacrifice of quality. The collection is made entirely in Italy at another of company’s factories that is located between Naples and Rome. The higher-priced Isaia collection is made entirely at company’s original manufacture (which played host to me a while back) just outside of Naples. Regardless of where they are made, both offer great tailoring that is made with a high level of attention to detail.

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Better Getting Better | Salvatore Piccolo

Jul 30th, 2013 | Categories: Made in Italy, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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This is the brand you probably only hear about in the wake of Pitti Uomo. The reason it doesn’t come up much is because, outside of his custom shirting clients, Salvatore Piccolo has very little distribution of the brand in the U.S. In a way, this limited availability sort of enhances the brand to me. It’s not in every shop and it’s not on every e-commerce outpost. Barneys has it and that’s apparently enough for the brand and for people like me who love its collection.

The reasons for this limited engagement, I hear, has to do with the fact that Salvatore himself is very involved in the entire process of making his clothing, from designing the fabrics (many of which are exclusive from mills in both Italy and Japan) to running the bottega in Napoli where everything is made. Increasing production and expanding is tough when one man needs to be involved in every detail. Coincidentally, that’s probably what makes these clothes so great and it is also probably the reason why I like them so much.

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Further Assessments | Salvatore Piccolo AW13

Mar 19th, 2013 | Categories: Further Assessments, Made in Italy, Menswear, Napoli, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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This is the room I most want to see in every season at Pitti Uomo. Piccolo is the master of color and texture. He mixes in English, American and Japanese with Italian style in the most simplistic and natural way. He’s also mastered of fabric if you were wondering. Not only that, he’s easy-going and affable as a person, which makes the visit even that much more enjoyable. He’s always wants to tell you about the process and the little details that make his clothing so special. It started as custom shirts all made in his bottega in Napoli. Later it evolved to ties, then on to jackets and now he makes handsome suits as well. The guy is a unstoppable.

Barneys brings it to America and Savatore comes to New York a few times a year to work with his custom clients, but when you see everything in once place like at Pitti, the presence of the collection overwhelms. It’s a feeling of mixed joy and pain. Happiness that you get to see it. Sadness that you can’t just pack it all up in trunks and ship it back directly to your closet where you will systematically deploy it to become the world’s best dressed man. [SALVATORE PICCOLO]

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Know Thyself | ISAIA AW13

Jan 27th, 2013 | Categories: Italy, Made in Italy, Menswear, Napoli, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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Seeing Isaia’s fall collection is one of the things that makes the trek to Florence worth it. The Neapolitan tailor never ceases to impress when it comes to shape and texture. The styling and strong sense of color also serve as some of the most inspirational corners of the menswear summit that is Pitti Uomo. The brand’s AW13 collection is no let down in this regard. There’s a lot going on in a relatively small selection of items, but the spirit remains and Isaia continues to delight with its willingness to know itself and be the brand it wants to be, not the brand other people want it to be.

Like most of the Isaia clothing in the past, this collection draws its inspiration from Naples, specifically from Januarius (the city’s patron saint) and the Naples Cathedral. The details of these inspirations show up in prints and in other small elements of the collection. The photos here give a nice sense of the fabrics, styling and feelings you can look forward for the coming fall.

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Speaking the Same Language | Salvatore Piccolo SS13

Sep 20th, 2012 | Categories: Made in Italy, Pitti Uomo June 2012 | by Michael Williams

The best part of seeing a new season’s worth of collections is the chance to obsess over the Salvatore Piccolo line. Being a good American and not speaking any Italian (the good American thing = sarcasm) and Salvatore speaking only a tiny bit of English, we focus our communication on shirts and the process of making them.

I’ve covered the last three collections from Piccolo without fail. For whatever reason woven shirts keep my attention and the stuff he turns out always impresses me. This season in addition to the all hand-made casual and dress shirt offerings, Salvatore Piccolo is introducing a small collection of sport jackets for spring. The silhouettes for the jackets are slim but not crazy —made to be wearable and in beautiful patterns and fabrics.