London | A Continuous Lean. - Part 2

From the ACL Archive | Savile Row on the BBC

Sep 21st, 2009 | Categories: London, Savile Row, Suiting | by Michael Williams

I thought it was worth a look back at this fantastic BBC documentary about Savile Row that was originally posted on ACL May 3rd, 2008. How has The Row reacted? Since it has been far too long since I have been in London, I’m curious to hear your thoughts in the comments. Have other High Street retailers moved on to the famed street? How is the economic slowdown impacted the tailors?

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Not long ago the BBC presented a facinating three part program on the world of Savile Row. In the first installment the English bespoke world is under threat from the American “High Street” brand Abercrombie & Fitch. Having previously worked on the public relations team at Abercrombie & Fitch, I am particularly familiar with the company. It is a very strategic and well run organization. A&F is a company where every decision is well thought out and purposeful, especially when concerning the brand image. I have to give credit where credit is due — the company’s branding and execution is on point with any of the luxury goods companies out there. That said, A&F’s decision to open on Savile Row while great for branding and image purposes, is painful to see and embarrassing to watch, especially as an American. The affect of mass market retailers on the institution (albeit a privileged one) of Savile Row, could prove to be disastrous. Though I suppose only time will tell.

I can’t seem to find the other two episodes…if anyone can locate them I will add to the post.





Edward, Ed, Ted, Teddy, Teddy Boy

Jun 8th, 2009 | Categories: London, Style | by Michael Williams

Edwardians, or “Teddy Boys” as they became known, are an English youth subculture that created a distinctive style by wearing clothes inspired by the Edwardian period that the tailors of Savile Row attempted to reintroduce after world war two. The term “Teddy Boy” came about as a result of a newspaper headline that shortened Edward to Teddy and subsequently to Teddy Boy. Below are a series of Teddy Boy photos from photographer Ben Watts that I find particularly interesting. The Teddy Boy subculture is a very unique phenomenon,  similar in idea to the “rock and roll” revolution in America in the 1950s.

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The House of E. Tautz

Jan 28th, 2009 | Categories: England, London, Savile Row, Style | by Michael Williams

It seems the good people at Norton & Sons are not content with simply running one of the most respected labels in the world. Patrick Grant, the man who resurrected Norton & Sons, emailed this weekend to inform me of the imminent relaunch of the storied E. Tautz house as a ready-to-wear collection. The as yet to be seen collection (by me anyway, buyers and press got the first look this past week in Paris) of men’s clothing and accessories will launch in better stores this coming fall. The range will also be on preview for press and buyers during New York fashion week, so I hope to do a follow-up post once images of the collection are released. It is also worth pointing out that Mr. Grant and co. went to great lengths to produce the line domestically in Britain. As you know, local manufacturing is something we love here at ACL. A brief history of E. Tautz after the jump. The official Tautz site, which is worth a look, can be seen here.

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Norton & Sons Trotters Bag

Oct 13th, 2008 | Categories: London, Savile Row, Style, Suiting | by Michael Williams

Who says you can’t afford anything from a Savile Row tailor. The much admired tailor Norton & Sons have recently released their Trotters Bag. Per the company website. “The Trotter, the most junior rank on Savile Row, trots between cutting rooms and workrooms, carrying bundles of cloth and trimmings to the sewing tailors and returning with sewn garments. At Norton & Sons our trotters use a traditional stout canvas Trotters Bag.”

I don’t think it gets more insider than to own one of these bags, although I would much prefer to show my rank with a Norton & Sons suit.





Awareness Test.

Mar 23rd, 2008 | Categories: London, Media | by Michael Williams

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Via [Noah K]

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Whites of White Cross

Mar 11th, 2008 | Categories: Grooming, London | by Michael Williams

How great is this website.

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Via Reference Library.

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Labour and Wait.

Feb 29th, 2008 | Categories: Design, London | by Michael Williams

I have moments where I want to live in a world before plastic. Before everything became branded and disposable. The 1940s would do the trick. When packages were wrapped in brown paper and twine. When your dust pan was steel and your breadbox (this is the 40s – you have a bread box) was enamel. Labour and Wait understands the charm of making things simple and clean like people did in the older days. So you can still live better through chemistry (no need to put the iMac away and live like you’re Amish) and still have some old school authenticity. Labour and Wait understands that basic is beautiful. I can’t help but to think of it as a British version of Muji, only better.

In addition to their original store in London, the company has a shop-in-shop in the fantastic Dover Street Market and a few “corners” in Japan, naturally.

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