Jake Gallagher | A Continuous Lean. - Page 3

A Carnegie Manor on Cumberland Island.

Mar 17th, 2014 | Categories: History, Jake Gallagher | by Jake Gallagher

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It’s one of America’s greatest rags-to-riches stories: two brothers, born into the utter poverty of lower-class Scotland in the mid-1800’s, immigrate to America and amass an inconceivable fortune all on their own. The Carnegie tale is a prime example of American industry at its finest, because in nineteenth century America, you didn’t exactly have to do everything by the book as long as you made billions.

That’s not to say that Andrew and Thomas Carnegie were purely driven by greed, after-all their name is emblazoned on buildings up and down the Northeast as a testament to their philanthropic spirit. From concert halls, to universities, to museums, the only thing the Carnegie’s liked more than making money, was putting their name on buildings, yet one of their most spectacular structures didn’t bear their name at all.

Toward the end of his all too short life Thomas, the younger of the two brothers purchased a vacation house on Cumberland Island, just off the coast of Georgia. Thomas was eight years Andrew’s junior and had spent his career assisting his brother with the daily operations of the family’s various corporations. Andrew was the idea man, while his brother did much of the grunt work, a role which helped make him both incredibly wealthy and incredibly tired. By his late-thirties, Thomas was ready to retire, and so he and his sizable family purchased “Dungeness Mansion” on Cumberland Island, a house with a history that rivaled that of the Carnegie’s themselves.





Herno Steps Into Its Own.

Mar 14th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in Italy, Outerwear | by Jake Gallagher

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Herno’s moment in the sun has been a long time coming. Founded in 1948, Herno has been creating some the world’s finest outerwear for over half a century, and yet the brand has remained in relative obscurity until fairly recently. In fact many of you might have even owned an Herno jacket over the years without ever even knowing it. This is all because historically Herno’s main business has been as a private label producer for renowned brands across the world, including the likes of Ralph Lauren, Jil Sander, Armani, Prada, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton.

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Getting Fleeced | The Retro-Tech Revival.

Mar 13th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Outerwear | by Jake Gallagher

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The debut of Patagonia’s Legacy collection last year was not merely a triumph for the Ventura, California based brand, it was definitive proof that the so-called heritage movement isn’t going anywhere. To be fair this is not the work wear centric heritage campaign of the mid aughts, which had men in 2007 dressing like coalminers from 1907, rather this current wave is far less stoic, drawing inspiration from the cheeky outdoor labels of the seventies and eighties. While we’re happy to report that neon headbands and technicolor leggings are still a thing of the past (for now), this movement has sparked a major comeback for one of the greatest “technical” fabrics of all time – fleece.

Developed by Malden Mills (which has now been succeeded by the more marketable Polartec) fleece is warm, waterproof, and clocks in weighing less than terrycloth making it about as cutting edge as it gets for the late seventies. In 1981, thanks to a serendipitous partnership with Yvon Chouinard, the owner of a blossoming mountaineering brand by the name of Patagonia (who is a client of Paul + Williams), Malden Mills creation made it’s way into the outdoor world. Over the next few years fleece trickled down to every mall brand in America and before you knew it, that mystique of innovation had worn off. What was once advertised as an advanced fabric for the ages was now more run of the mill than merino and fleece was delegated to the discount bin.

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Eastlogue | Anglo-American Menswear from Korea

Mar 12th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher | by Jake Gallagher

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While menswear’s general purview has been affixed squarely on the big five – the U.S., England, Italy, France, and Japan for the past, oh let’s say forever, several worthwhile brands have emerged out of those countries that often go overlooked. Spain has given us sportswear label Man 1924, tailor P. Johnson has materialized out of Australia, and of course there’s a whole slew of casual Canadian labels out there including Reigning Champ, Wings + Horns, and Klaxon Howl.

And then there’s Korea, which has recently surfaced as an unlikely breeding ground for young designers, including Eastlogue, a three year old brand based out of Seoul. Eastlogue was the one unknown (at least to me) brand that really stood out to me during New York’s market week this year. The entire line is produced in Korea, but the clothes reflect a more Anglo-American sensibility, which is a clear reflection of designer Lee Dongki’s interest in vintage garments. The casual sport coats are an interesting hybrid of Army field jackets, and the sort of suits you would have seen in American cities during the 1930’s. The parkas are big, burly, and heavily detailed, with massive bellowed pockets and fur hoods, like they were ripped right from Sir Edmund Hillary’s closet. The shirts and trousers also reflect Dongki’s fastidious eye, with tabbed collars, front pockets, and bold checks.





Rude Shoes | Jamaica’s Love Affair With Clarks

Mar 11th, 2014 | Categories: Books, England, Jake Gallagher | by Jake Gallagher

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There is nothing offensive about a pair of Clarks. Desert Boots, Mountain Treks, and Wallabees, these are the simple suede chukkas that your mother probably bought you for your first day of elementary school, and what could be offensive about that?

And yet, in Jamaica, the one word most associated with Clarks is “rude.” As in rude boys, the rebellious subculture that emerged amongst Jamaica’s lower class during the 1960’s. Driven by a reggae backbeat, Jamaica’s disenfranchised youths became enamored with the skinny suits, raucous music, and devil-may-care demeanor that defined England’s counterculture movement. The interplay between youth cultures in Jamaica and England was a mutually beneficial relationship that ultimately gave Rude Boys a chance to separate themselves from slum-life in a way that simultaneously audacious and aspirational.

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Diving Into the Ring Jacket Tumblr.

Mar 9th, 2014 | Categories: Internets, Jake Gallagher, Japan | by Jake Gallagher

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If you’ve never heard of Ring Jacket before we can’t blame you (although if you were paying attention to our post on The Armoury, you would’ve spotted their name.) While Ring Jacket was founded in 1954, the Japanese brand only officially arrived in the U.S. recently, as the aforementioned New York location of The Armoury began to offer a refined assortment of sport coats, knits, and overcoats from RJ’s astonishingly deep collections. Ring Jacket is best described as a proficient amalgam of Italian tailoring, American sportswear, and Japanese panache. Their wares range from bold soft shouldered sport coats, to inventive knit blousons, to slim pinstriped suits, pulling dribs and drabs of influence from the world over to create a cohesive range of formal and casual pieces.

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What They Know Best | Begg & Co

Mar 7th, 2014 | Categories: Accessories, Jake Gallagher, Made in Scotland | by Jake Gallagher

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Make one thing, and make it great.

As a brand that has truly mastered the art of producing exceptional cashmere accessories, this is what we take to be the Begg & Co philosophy. Begg & Co’s collections do not run rampant with superfluous designs, inadequate ideas, or overcomplicated pieces, instead they favor a streamlined, hyper focused approach to their products. Since 1866 Begg & Co has called Scotland home, producing nothing but cashmere scarves and throws for nearly one-hundred-fifty years.

In sticking to what they know best, Begg & Co have been able to create one of the widest, and most aesthetically appealing array of scarves we’ve ever come across. While the larger scope of their scarf and blanket collections is impressive, its product is best understood when it’s in your hands, and if you want to experience that, you’ll just have to pick one up for yourself. —JG

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