Jake Gallagher | A Continuous Lean.

Get to Know Australia’s Most Stylish Tailor.

Dec 19th, 2014 | Categories: A Conversation With, Jake Gallagher, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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One of the most telling facts about Patrick Johnson, the Australian tailor behind P. Johnson, comes well after our interview has officially concluded. Johnson is in New York for his brand’s first official U.S. trunk show, and as we’re exiting the Bowery Hotel on the Friday before the show starts, he tells me that during his younger years he had trained to become a winemaker, only to learn that he had a serious allergy to a key ingredient in wine. It’s the sort of discovery that would have crippled a lesser man, and yet Patrick tells me this story with a wide grin on his face. In fact he says just about everything with that grin on his face. By the time Patrick learned of his allergy he had already found a new passion, clothing. Winemaking is a career, but it’s also a labor of love, much like tailoring. And so he traded one passion pursuit for another, becoming the most famous name in Australian menswear, and growing his eponymous label from one small tailoring shop into a global business, one that is large enough to require regular visits to America, with a permanent New York City shop on the way.

ACL: You’re pretty established in Australia, what made you guys want to start looking towards the states?

PJ: Well, the Australian market is quite a small market. We obviously enjoy it there, but it’s pretty small. We have a lot of clients who live in America, either Americans or ex-pats, and so we decided after a while that we’d start showing here, basically just to grow a bit. To grow inside of Australia, from a business point of view, we’d have to change our aesthetic a little bit and I didn’t want to do that. So yeah, just client demand and a bit of an adventure, get us outside of our comfort zone a bit.





The ACL Guide to New York Hotels Young & Old

Dec 18th, 2014 | Categories: ACL Advisor, Jake Gallagher, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

The Plaza in 1910

New York City is home to a staggering two-hundred-fifty plus hotels, ranging from five star palaces to hole in the wall hostels. And yet, even with mind-boggling number of options many visitors to the city end up just settling for whatever hotel they’re most familiar with, and that right there is a colossal mistake. New York hotels, old and new, are an attraction in their own right, and each one is as unique as the city’s eight million plus inhabitants. From a stately high-rise on Madison, to a renovated factory in Williamsburg, New York has a bevy of classic and contemporary hotels that are well worth a stay.

The Classics:

The Plaza: Barefoot in the Park, Scent of a Woman, Almost Famous, The Great Gatsby, American Hustle. All these films (and many, many more) have been filmed in and around this one-hundred-seven-year old hotel, because few buildings epitomize classic New York quite like The Plaza.





The Brands from Scotland Yarn.

Dec 17th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in Scotland, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

Johnstons

“Scotland: The land of a thousand knitters. Or at least, we used to be.”

It might not be the most appealing tourism slogan, but the truth rarely is. With cheaper prices and shorter lead-times lying further to the East, countless brands have exported their knitwear production to Asia, leaving many Scottish factories without enough orders to stay afloat. The knitwear industry reaches back to the late 1700’s, when the first framing guides arrived in Scotland allowing craftspeople to churn out their fine knits at a faster pace.  Scotland once had over two thousand knitwear manufacturers, today that figure is closer to a couple hundred, if that.





Implements of Winter (Hand) Survival.

Dec 15th, 2014 | Categories: Accessories, Jake Gallagher, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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During Ernest Shackleton’s first expedition to Antarctica from 1901-1903, he and his crew experienced scurvy, snow blindness, and of course frostbite. We’ll never truly be able to understand just how bad things got for team Shackleton (and they got very bad, proof here), but we will be damned if there aren’t days where our fingers feel like they could just snap off at any moment. Yes, it’s hyperbolic to compare our average icy conditions to Antarctic extremes, but we don’t think many of us are venturing to the south pole anytime soon, so for those of us that brave the standard “below-freezing-but-still-not-cold-enough-to-turn-your-thumb-black” weather here are some gloves to keep your fingers free from frost this winter.





Barbour’s Many Bedfellows.

Dec 9th, 2014 | Categories: Collaborations, Jake Gallagher, Made in England, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

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Barbour’s been busy. One hundred twenty years after they were founded in South Shields, England, Barbour’s creative output is as high as ever. Not only does the brand’s main line now consist of a handful of collections, including heritage, sporting, and cycling, but the company continues to widen the reach, bringing new collaborations into the fold with each passing season. These collaborations are as varied and interesting as Barbour’s audience, ranging from a mammoth global corporation like Adidas, down to smaller shops such as Soto Berlin. Our count stands at seven collaborations thus far this year, but considering their track record, we wouldn’t be surprised to see Barbour’s collaborations climb into the double digits for 2015.

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Barbour x Norton & Sons Heritage Collection





Rare Weaves | A Conversation Through Clothing

Dec 4th, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Made in the USA, Menswear, New York City | by Jake Gallagher

RW9

“When I bring that to life…..” Hartley Goldstein’s voice trails off as he points to one of the many stacks of folded fabrics that are littered throughout his apartment like textile sandcastles. Hartley motions to these mounds again and again during my visit, less like a school teacher pointing at the blackboard, and more like a movie director walking me through storyboards. On the surface, they’re just lumps of faded indigo and patchwork scraps, but Hartley sees them as stories. Not just the stories of the past that these textiles, many of which are hundreds of years old, carry, but the stories that Hartley is yet to tell with them.

RW2





Stay Toasty My Friends

Dec 2nd, 2014 | Categories: Jake Gallagher, Menswear | by Jake Gallagher

Carnegie

Winter is a season of plenty. Plenty of layers, plenty of food, plenty of celebrations, plenty of fires, and plenty of Chapstick. Hell, the only thing winter seems to lack for is digits on the thermometer. With this in mind, winter is also a season of bulking up. Summer is for striping down, winter is for packing on. And we’re not talking about pounds, we’re talking about clothes. No one likes to think of adding on clothing when it’s blazing hot out, but by the time that first snow blows in, you’ll want to be ready with more layers than a vidalia onion. So in the spirit of staying warm, here’s our visual guide to a highly insulated Winter.