Further Assessments | A Continuous Lean.

Further Assessments | Salvatore Piccolo AW13

Mar 19th, 2013 | Categories: Further Assessments, Made in Italy, Menswear, Napoli, Pitti Uomo 2013 | by Michael Williams

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This is the room I most want to see in every season at Pitti Uomo. Piccolo is the master of color and texture. He mixes in English, American and Japanese with Italian style in the most simplistic and natural way. He’s also mastered of fabric if you were wondering. Not only that, he’s easy-going and affable as a person, which makes the visit even that much more enjoyable. He’s always wants to tell you about the process and the little details that make his clothing so special. It started as custom shirts all made in his bottega in Napoli. Later it evolved to ties, then on to jackets and now he makes handsome suits as well. The guy is a unstoppable.

Barneys brings it to America and Savatore comes to New York a few times a year to work with his custom clients, but when you see everything in once place like at Pitti, the presence of the collection overwhelms. It’s a feeling of mixed joy and pain. Happiness that you get to see it. Sadness that you can’t just pack it all up in trunks and ship it back directly to your closet where you will systematically deploy it to become the world’s best dressed man. [SALVATORE PICCOLO]

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Further Assessments | Camoshita AW12

Apr 30th, 2012 | Categories: Further Assessments, Japan, Pitti Uomo January 2012 | by Michael Williams

A Japanese-designed, Italian-styled collection that is heavily appreciated on an American blog —Camoshita could potentially make the world explode, or at least the Internets. After a meeting in midtown the other day, I popped into Barneys to survey the new goods that had recently arrived. Low and behold, right there on the main men’s floor, was the Camoshita collection. It reminded me of these images from Pitti that have clearly been neglected for too long. Though, all is not lost because these clothes still have a few more months before they hit stores.

The Camoshita collection is designed and produced under the United Arrows umbrella by Yasuto Kamoshita (the UA creative director) in Japan, and the line beautifully represents the double-barreled Japanese commitments to craftsmanship and Italian tailoring.





Further Assesments | Nanamica AW12

Feb 9th, 2012 | Categories: Further Assessments, Pitti Uomo January 2012 | by Michael Williams

The new Nanamica AW12 collection is in the running for the best stuff I saw at Pitti. I base that statement on the fact that I literally wanted to buy every piece. The pairing of technical fabrics and traditional colors / styles really moves the needle for me. The Gore-Tex trench coats and that Gore-tex blackwatch sport coat are basically as good as it gets. A few years back I bought a North Face Purple Label khaki trench coat (which is basically the same as these Nanamica jobs) and I consider it one of the best purchases I have ever made. The coats are so similar because Nanamica holds the license for Purple Label, so this collection is basically purple label for distribution outside of Japan.





Further Assessments | Brunello Cucinelli SS12

Jun 26th, 2011 | Categories: Further Assessments, Italy, Pitti Uomo 2011 | by Michael Williams

The Brunello Cucinelli area at Pitti Uomo was consistently crowded, and for good reason. As I said in my GQ Pitti Diary. “The layering is just so well executed. Just being in the Cucinelli stand makes you have better taste via menswear osmosis.” And it’s not just the styling, Cucinelli (like many of the Italians) is very good at the pairing of color and texture. It goes without saying that the fabric is also extremely well done and the fit is slim but not insane. That all said, how could these guys not make amazing collections when they go to work here everyday.

A few more images from the Brunello Cucinelli SS12 collection below.





Further Assessments | Nanamica SS12

Jun 23rd, 2011 | Categories: Further Assessments, Italy, Japan, Pitti Uomo 2011 | by Michael Williams

While there were quite a few Japanese buyers at Pitti Uomo, there weren’t many labels selling their own wares. One notable exception was Nanamica, who had its second collection of private label goods on offer to buyers. The line was not one to miss — it was full of amazing fabrics, great detailing and the always fun “classics with a twist” that we have all grown to love from the Japanese.

If you aren’t familiar with the company, Nanmica is a distributor in Japan (The North Face Purple Label, Filson, etc.) and also has several of its own stores which sell the labels it distributes plus outside collections from all sorts of good designers. To me, Nanmica is one of the best shops in Japan. I always make a point to stop in and often end up leaving with a something that You can’t find in The States. The good news is, that won’t be the case with the private label collection pictured here.





Further Assessments | L.B.M. 1911

Jun 19th, 2011 | Categories: Firenze, Further Assessments, Italy, Pitti Uomo 2011 | by Michael Williams

The way the planners of the menswear show Pitti Uomo have things physically laid out there are many buildings to conqueror and a lot of ground to cover in the three days of the Firenze fair. This coupled with the fact that the GQ diary had most of my attention, meant that these updates had to wait a bit. The good news is, this week is going to be a good one for those of you that prefer to read about clothing than see old photos I dug out of some historical society.