Clothing | A Continuous Lean. - Page 2

Made in Rochester | Hickey Freeman

Feb 2nd, 2011 | Categories: Clothing, Factory Tour, Made in the USA | by Michael Williams

Home to corporate juggernauts like Kodak and Xerox, Rochester, New York has a rich industrial history. In addition to some of America’s largest companies, the city is also quietly home to Hickey Freeman, one of the country’s oldest and last surviving (and arguably one of the best) clothiers. Founded in 1899 by Jeremiah Hickey and Jacob Freeman, the company is still at it, making suits in their sprawling 77,000 square foot factory in Rochester. Having been to several other clothing factories in the U.S., I have been interested in paying a visit to Hickey Freeman for the past several years. I wanted to see firsthand the quality of the Hickey Freeman full canvas construction. Needless to say, when I finally got the opportunity to see the operation I was not disappointed.

The factory in Rochester ranks up there as one of the most well organized I have ever seen. Wait, I should clarify that last statement a little bit. Hickey Freeman’s plant is one of the most well organized clothing factories that I have come across in the U.S. Allen Edmonds also has a pretty amazing production facility in Wisconsin that I have toured. There aren’t a lot of clothing companies still operating in the U.S., which is why it is interesting to see how advanced the Hickey Freeman process and facilities are. Everything is clean, well organized and modern. And all of this in the same building the company was founded in. Pretty amazing if you ask me. All of the garments move through the production line on special trays that the company has produced especially for its needs. In most clothing factories pieces and parts are bundled. You will notice in the photos that special care is given at every step to preserve the desired shape of the clothing as it snakes its way through the process. This example just illustrates the care and attention that goes into making a Hickey Freeman suit.

Another thing that stood out to me about the factory is the diversity of the work force, something that is also unrivaled at any facility I have been to previously. The plant manager told me they have workers from 17 different countries under one roof. It literally is the closest thing to a melting pot that I have ever seen working together. And everyone is working toward one common goal, to make fine tailored goods.





Outfitted for Autumn by E. Tautz

Sep 2nd, 2010 | Categories: Clothing, England, Savile Row | by Michael Williams

If you aren’t up on the house of E. Tautz and the man behind the collection Mr. Patrick Grant, you are missing out. I first wrote about the resurrection of the label in January of 2009 and am delighted to see the line available in the U.S. for the first time at Barneys.

A few months ago Patrick held a trunk show in New York which gave me a chance to touch and feel the fall collection in person. I can attest to the amazing quality of make and material. Being one who appreciates craft (not to mention English tailoring) I enjoy the emphasis that Tautz has put on the range being sourced and sewn in Britain. Accordingly, the tailored clothing is done by the same craftsman that make the bespoke goods at Norton & Sons (Tautz’s mother label).





Made in Chicago | Oxxford Clothes

Aug 29th, 2010 | Categories: Chicago, Clothing, Factory Tour, Video | by Michael Williams

The good people at Oxxford Clothes have put together a short film documenting the process of making what many think to be America’s finest tailored clothing. If there were any question as to Oxxford’s quality and make, the company dispels all doubt with the “Anatomy of the Suit” section of its website. It seems clear that Oxxford has set the standard for making heirloom-quality-goods. I own quite a few suits, but sadly none of them are made by Oxxford. This needs to change.

Thanks to Michael for the tip.