The scene for this summer’s vacation was, again, thankfully Ischia. It’s an island I am getting to know (and love) more and more each year. I was educated about Ischia by Tom Kalenderian from Barneys, a man who will always be light years ahead of me when it comes to matters of good taste. My fiancé and I visited in June, a month in which the island ticks along with very nice weather and about half as many people as you would likely find in August. The combination of those enjoyment related two details all but guarantees me a return visit next year.
In my mind, there’s no better place to be really, and a lot of the charm has to do with the simple way of the island. When you visit don’t expect to see rows of luxury shops, because there aren’t any. There isn’t much to do there really, which is actually very nice. If you are get tired of sitting by the pool or swimming in the sea, hire a boat to take you around the island to have lunch in one of the hidden coves that only the locals know about. Or start in on the wine and get to bed early. There’s no fear of missing out – nothing is happening anywhere else, and even if it were, who cares.
We stayed (again) at the Mezzatorre Hotel near the town of Lacco Ameno. It’s an amazing place and a terrific hotel. When we decided to go back, there was not even a moment of consideration for hotels – we knew we wanted to be back at Mezzatorre. When I go back next summer, that’s where you will find me. The pool at the hotel can make a day feel like 10 minutes, it flies right by. The food and staff are all excellent. The worst part about being there is knowing you are going to have to leave one day. At least you know that, thankfully, Ischia doesn’t change much. Oh, and there’s always next summer.
It looks beautiful, man!
I find it hard to properly relax on holidays, I’m always wanted to get out and do something. I haven’t learned to chill out just yet. Views like these would help to change that I think.
I was in Ischia last summer for 2 weeks. After taking the aliscafi “fast ferry” from Naples port, we arrived at the castle framed island, staying with a friend whose extended family still lives there. Their house on a hill has a miniature garden which grows basil, tomatoes, eggplants, and virtually every other vegetable required to make dinner that night. The pizza delivery is the best pizza you’ve ever had but to the locals is just “pizza delivery….”
The mini-pebble beaches are perfect cause they’re soft to the touch and just shake off you (no sand in all your crevices). Staying with locals was a huge plus cause we had home cooked Italian feasts virtually every night and glorious leftovers the following lunch. You wake up each morning to fresh espresso and a breakfast of crusty breads and fresh mozzarella. What I call a breakfast!
If I could visit ischia every summer -like Michael seemingly does – I would be a much more peaceful man. Such a beautiful island, minus the pretenses of the neighbouring Capri.
Ps we were there in July just before the euro vacation influx in august.
I read a disturbing article, when researching this destination. According to the article, their sewage is discharged directly to the ocean, due to them not completing a sewage treatment facility. You know anything about this?
RKW — I have not seen evidence of this and I have not heard about it during my trips there.
I love Ischia. Procida is just as amazing. We could see both from the house I lived in during high school in Pozzuoli. There is a sewage treatment issue, but it’s less of an issue than you would think, seriously.
Any time spent in Campania is time that is well spent, if you can make it there then it is worth it. I have never regretted any time spent in the region. Capri may be better known, but it’s not that much more exciting. Make the run to Sorrento, Amalfi, Hurculaneum (sp?), Pompeii, the Archaelogicial musuem in Naples, and any number of other amazing things in the area.
It is phenomenal. And even if you just spend a week straight eating at the same waterfront restaurant eating fresh fish and drinking cheap wine every night, it’ll be one of the best weeks of your life.
Michael, delighted to see your post as I write this note from my balcony at Mezzatorre. It is indeed a great island and a great hotel. We have a fabulous room in the tower overlooking the sea. Nothing beats it to unwind. As you say, it’s going to hard to leave!