Tellason for ACL & Co. | A Continuous Lean.

Tellason for ACL & Co.

Jan 30th, 2011 | Categories: ACL & Co., ACL SHOP, Collaborations, Denim | by Michael Williams

As far as special products go, it was a natural for me to collaborate with Tellason on a special pair of jeans for the ACL Shop. We share similar perspectives when it comes to denim and more importantly we both possess a commitment to American manufacturing, especially when it comes to jeans.

I first met Tony Patella and Pete Searson, the founders of the brand, two years ago through a mutual friend. Tony and Pete have worked in the business for some time, but were just getting started with Tellason when our paths crossed. I was impressed with what they were doing with Tellason. It was around that same time that I interviewed Tony to help introduce Tellason to the ACL faithful.

We started talking about doing a special run of jeans as a collaboration about a year ago. To me the direction was obvious, let’s create a modified fit that was special for the ACL Shop. I liked the originally Tellason fit (called the Strummer / John Graham Mellor) but wanted something that was a little less skinny, had a bit more anti-fit and was in general more relaxed. What we came up with has the proportional balance of the original Tellason fit with a little more comfort. The ACL Fit as it became known (I think Tony has been secretly calling it the “Husky” fit — which I’m sure is not a reference to me) has a slightly higher rise in the front, a higher rise in the back, a bit of a wider leg and runs straight from the knee to the leg opening. It is a true straight leg jean. All of the Tellason for ACL & Co. jeans are made from Cone White Oak selvedge denim and are of course made in the United States of America. Even the leather patch is made in the USA from the guys at Tanner Goods in Portland. In the true spirit of America we even made sure to run the jeans up to a size 40 — so man-sized MF’ers don’t feel left out.

The jeans pictured in this post arrived to me about the time of the Pop Up Flea and I have been wearing them ever since. This weekend I gave them their first rinse/wash and am very pleased with the fit, the wear and the overall quality. I would probably never attempt to develop a pair of jeans on my own because it is such a tricky process, but working with Tony and Pete from Tellason has been a really great experience. I’m really proud of our collaboration jeans and am happy to support all of the non-skinny jean wearing folks in the world. Regular sized fellas need jeans too. [Tellason for ACL & Co. $198]

Comments: 69

69 Comments to “Tellason for ACL & Co.”

  1. Terrapin Stationers
    on Jan 30th, 2011
    @ 11:27 PM

    Hell Yes.

  2. Alex Frankel
    on Jan 30th, 2011
    @ 11:39 PM

    Good work with that leather patch.

  3. Ted
    on Jan 30th, 2011
    @ 11:48 PM

    Have worn mine almost every day since I got them. Still have not washed but shoveling the snow helped clean them and tighten up the fit around the ankle. They look awesome with my redwings and all my other shoes.

    Also I don’t feel like a hipster wearing skinny selvage jeans in these! Well done.

  4. Jacob
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 12:48 AM

    The crotch is too low. Sorry. Would never wear these.

    I can’t wait for this low crotch trend to run itself out.

  5. safra
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 12:49 AM

    you are one of the fortunate few who can makes jeans you’d actually like to wear. It’s very hard for me being an awkward shaped woman. I tend to wear my jeans to holes.

  6. Jacob
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 12:50 AM

    …Other than that, they look like a great pair of jeans. Really nice looking denim.

    (Don’t mean to just be a hater).

  7. blake
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 9:42 AM

    trends come and trends go but levis 501s without any bullshit frills are the only jeans worth wearing,

  8. Pat S
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 9:44 AM

    On a unrelated note. That carpet is gorgeous. Where did you find it, what country is it from, what age is it?

  9. Dean
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 11:29 AM

    I just got my hands on a Tellason (sorry not the ACL version) and they are the best jeans.
    Besides the great material, they are cut so well. Kudos to you for considering the man sized
    MFs. I’m one of them who can’t wear much of the beautiful garments in the high end stores.

  10. Mike
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 11:35 AM

    Look great, but you are leaving out some key denim-head details here. Weight? Sanforized? Inseam? Synthetic or natural indigo? (I’m assuming synthetic based on the great price)

  11. billword
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 11:57 AM

    “In the true spirit of America we even made sure to run the jeans up to a size 40 — so man-sized MF’ers don’t feel left out.”

    It used to be big-boned, then portly, then husky… now it’s man-sized?

    If you’re wearing a size 40, you’re fat.

  12. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 12:29 PM

    • Weight = 12.5oz
    • They are sanforized – all Cone White Oak fabrics are sanforized.
    • Inseam 33.5″
    • Synthetic indigo

  13. jiheison
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 1:01 PM

    33.5″ inseam is downright stingy. I may be biased since I’m tall and prefer a 38-40″ inseam, but when multiple Japanese brands can accommodate that, I have a hard time crediting a 33.5″ inseam as American “man-sized”.

  14. JB
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 1:12 PM

    I picked these up at the Pop-Up flea and have loved them every minute since, but sadly haven’t been able to put the wear in them that I’d like. These are really a great product from top to bottom, inside and out.

    And that includes the 3 dudes who collaborated on them.

  15. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 1:25 PM

    You sound GIANT-sized and Tony from Tellason said he didn’t want any giants walking around in his jeans. Just kidding he didn’t say that. But it really does sound like you are a giant. #cantpleaseallofthepeopleallofthetime

  16. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 1:30 PM

    I also want to say that these are too expensive.

  17. brandon
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 1:55 PM

    awesome jeans. great philosophy behind their creation. but $198.00 price tag doesn’t carry the American spirit.

  18. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:00 PM

    If I would have just waited one comment!

  19. Larry
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:06 PM

    I got the one of a kind 42″ waist at Pop-Up (made for Tony’s dad), they are the best jeans ever made.

    Hey Bill, I think Howlin’ Wolf said it best:

    “Some folk built like this, some folk built like that
    But the way I’m built, you shouldn’t call me fat
    Because I’m built for comfort, I ain’t built for speed
    But I got everything all the good girls need”

  20. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:17 PM

    Brandon — here’s your “American Spirit” http://www.walmart.com/ip/Faded-Glory-Men-s-Original-Fit-Jeans-2-Pairs/7941832

    2 pairs for $18

  21. Matt
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:19 PM

    Random as hell but I really like that rug in the photos. Great colors.

  22. Ted
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:31 PM

    Hey @BillWord Size 40 does not mean your fat. Athletes have to wear size 40 to accommodate the size of their thighs into pants because they are so large. This was my issue while playing college football. I am now in between a 36-38 in pants, and I am “man sized” and not fat, you wont see me in a size medium t shirt anytime soon but my 300lb bench press and accompanied muscles will always compensate for “being husky or man sized” in my size XL.

    Also a 33.5 inseam is a tad short,however as these wear along they do stretch out some become longer.

    Final thought on this- 34in inseam is the common inseam on most jeans it seems like, and this is a bit short a 36in+ would be better. I can only get one Roll on my cuffs with a 34 inseam.

  23. Jeremiah
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:37 PM

    Since you already gave ‘em a soak, I’m guessing you don’t go for the whole, “wear them for a year before washing” gig.

    How often do you plan on bathing these beauties? You don’t buy into the fading, stacking, honeycombs craze?

  24. jiheison
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:42 PM

    Yeah, I have a long inseam. But again, since *Japanese* brands can please all of the people with up to 40″ inseams. . .

    Even a tiny operation like Roy has 39.5″ inseams across the entire size range.

    It just seems odd. Looking at your previous Tellason post, the jeans are modeled with a 2-3″ cuff at the bottom.

    But whatever. May they find their buyers. I’m sure they are great quality if they fit.

  25. Brandon
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 2:46 PM

    I’ve found a high level of entertainment value in these comments.

  26. Ryan Jay Robison
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:00 PM

    It’s a shame it’s not mentioned Tellasons are made here in San Francisco. As far as I know, Tellason is the only entity actually making jeans in their historic home. It’s remarkable not only that these jeans are being made in America, where manufacturing employment has declined, but that they’re being made in a city many consider anathema to business and not the “real America”.

  27. vanderleun
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:02 PM

    $200 for Jeans: Tellason for ACL — “Why pay less?”

  28. vanderleun
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:03 PM

    Can I kick in ten bucks more and get them pressed at least?

  29. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:11 PM

    The jeans all come raw, the jeans pictured are mine that have been worn and washed. Good lord people. #pleaseread

  30. Billy
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:21 PM

    These look just about perfect.

  31. Juan Mas
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:34 PM

    I’ve got to agree with Matt…that rug is unreal! How ’bout some ACL carpet bags??? And I love what the Tellason guys are doing. Great product, Great Story. I saw them in the General Store (Outer Sunset, SF)…

  32. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:37 PM

    Then I would just be called a carpet bagger.

    Rug was a gift from my mother who got it from my grandparents. I think it is pretty old. I’ll find out specifics.

  33. Ryan
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:38 PM

    tellason makes a great pair of jeans with a fit that is perfect in ALL sizes, not just the 30-33′s. i’m on my second pair (due to weight loss) and will continue to wear their jeans as long as they continue to make ‘em.

  34. James
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 3:48 PM

    you’re complaining about $200 jeans? have you ever even looked at the ACL shop? is this your first time on this website? O_o

  35. Ryan
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 4:49 PM

    They look really nice. Love that they’re made here in SF, CA.

    But damn those look baggy! Any fit pics?

    Also, where can one see Tellason jeans in person? I tried looking the information up on their website but it’s not working well for me.

  36. Ryan Jay Robison
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 6:16 PM

    To the other Ryan-

    I got my Tellasons at Unionmade at 18th and Sanchez, but they’re available all over the city. I would recommend going down at least one size. I normally wear a 32 and the 31s are a bit loose on me (yet to be washed). The standard John Graham Mellor fit is sort of like a Levis 514 (“slim straight”) but a bit higher rise, especially in the back.

    Power to the Ryans!

  37. tintin
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 6:19 PM

    Do you know how much sex I could have in Colon, Panama for $198?

  38. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 6:21 PM

    Tintin — I was actually not aware of the cost of a male prostitute in Panama. Sounds as though you speak from experience.

  39. Lee
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 6:32 PM

    Yes ! For sure !!

  40. heh
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 6:56 PM

    tintin,
    What is the going rate for colon sex these days?

  41. Jojoba
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 7:55 PM

    When i read this post i scanned down waiting in fear to see the price having seen other ACL exclusives but 198 for American made salvedge cone mill jeans is about going rate. Not too shaby.

  42. tintin
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 8:20 PM

    Heh- Depends on who’s giving versus getting.

    M Williams – Touched on earlier on your prostiture post. Don’t you read your own blog? Wait, you’re probably too busy working on another $300 button down oxford so you can buy other people’s Kodachrome slides.

  43. Michael Williams
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 8:27 PM

    Tintin — I’m interested in getting you to bless my products “Trad Approved,” what’s the going rate on that these days? I’ve got some loose change in my couch.

  44. the_passenger
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 9:20 PM

    Being the sort of guy who normally buys my 501s for $35 or so at the Levi’s store, these are a bit steep for me, but that is about the most beautiful shade of blue denim I’ve ever seen. Maybe if I can sell some of my other stuff…

  45. mike
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 9:48 PM

    ZINGER!!!!!!!! sorry. i had to

  46. tintin
    on Jan 31st, 2011
    @ 10:30 PM

    M W – Wouldn’t you rather buy some of my slides? You don’t come to Trad Approved — Trad Approved comes to you. Unless I’m broke.

  47. chapeldreamer
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 9:07 AM

    I like the idea that you are using American goods. That is exactly what we need as a nation, get back to becoming manufacturers and and invest in our own people. In making the decision to keep it American you put food on someones table and provided another person with the money to pay their mortgage all right here in the states. Bravo!

  48. Philip Given
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 10:27 AM

    This is better priced than most NON American mad denim. Let alone NC Raw, USA made, and a cross promoted pair with ACL.

    Perfect timing for me as I was just about to pick up a pair of Nudies. I’m not a denimhead, I just hate wearing lightweight jeans. I love my 501′s but hate that they aren’t USA made.

    Also, Michael- since most people apparently can’t or don’t read, maybe a picture of a raw pair (like on the store page) would be helpful in the post itself. Either way, I ordered mine. Yay!

  49. Dan Dahl
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 11:52 AM

    33.5 really? are croppers making a comeback? to Billword, at 6’6″ you were hoping for what a 33 waist? I at least like to cast a shadow.

  50. Dan Dahl
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 11:54 AM

    These are sweet looking though. Color is right on. Nice work.

  51. sinuhe
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 12:01 PM

    Having seen a pair of jeans made by hand I can appreciate the cost and compared to other brands making jeans in the U.S. the sub $200 price is very reasonable.

    Here is how the Stronghold makes their $300 + jeans out of the same materials. I can’t imagine these ACL-Telleson’s go through much of a different process for a $100 less.

    http://vimeo.com/19364768

  52. jbjones
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 12:50 PM

    as a real american, i’m proud to say that i never pay more than $17.76 dollars for goddamn anything. and that includes swimming

  53. Philip Given
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 1:43 PM

    @sinuhe – here is how Raleigh does it. Another great video.

    http://bit.ly/eb7CD5

  54. Philip Given
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 1:44 PM

    @sinuhe – woops! Sorry, I didn’t see you made that original video. Great work!

  55. John
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 4:18 PM

    I appreciate the idea behind non slim-fit selvedge jeans (they’re harder to find, for sure and I hate wearing skinny jeans with my redwing steel toes) but I’m 6’4″ and I don’t think I could pay $200 and not be able to show off the craftsmanship of selvedge by rolling them up if the inseam is a mear 33.5″

    Any plans on releasing a 36+” inseam in the future?

  56. Michael Williams
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 4:37 PM

    Tony from Tellason is 6’4″ and he fits these fine. No plans to release with a longer inseam.

  57. Elias
    on Feb 1st, 2011
    @ 8:49 PM

    You are a crafty one, Mr. Williams. Get me pining over those Raleigh jeans for a year while I try and figure out how I can scratch up $300 for them, and then drop these down for $198. I would have thought that price ridiculous last year. Now you have me desensitized, and they seem like a bargain.

  58. JW
    on Feb 2nd, 2011
    @ 10:17 AM

    I own both pairs of Tellasons jeans. I wear the ACLs 5 days a week and the Strummers twice a week. In my opinion, Mike and Tony perfected what was already perfect.

  59. James
    on Feb 2nd, 2011
    @ 10:38 PM

    I’m 6’3″ and relatively thin. The Strummer/whatever his real name is jeans have proven to be pretty damn perfect for my build – long legs, not much ass. While I lament not being Able to cuff much, I’m used to that at this point.

    In fact due to potential crotch blow in my first pair, which I got on sale from
    By George here in Austin in a size 30 and have since put on some pounds, I just picked up a By George collab pair. The color and sheen are so far my favorite and while the denim is lighter than some and wears in quicker, for someone who can’t wait 2 years for a new pair this is a boon.

    That being said, the cut is not for everybody and just like the ACL collab would probably drape on me, these would look foolish on some.

  60. Steven
    on Feb 3rd, 2011
    @ 4:29 AM

    I don’t understand what is American about paying little money for a quality product- seriously, not being sarcastic, please do explain.

  61. HB
    on Feb 3rd, 2011
    @ 10:08 AM

    Can you say Ford Model T? Levis 501? Timex? Expensive doesn’t always equal good quality. Had two Rolex sea dwellers, crappy time keepers.

  62. James
    on Feb 3rd, 2011
    @ 12:02 PM

    It’s a luxury market dressed in patriotism. Until the next socialist revolt, it’s best to accept it and then continuing shopping at Kohls.

  63. chazzz
    on Feb 3rd, 2011
    @ 3:28 PM

    The “next” socialist revolt? Did I miss something?

  64. James
    on Feb 3rd, 2011
    @ 5:56 PM

    Sarcasm aside, I thought this was worth sharing:

    I contacted Tellason today to see if they might repair my first pair. Tony got back to me right away, offering to repair them for free.

    I’m further impressed with these guys.

  65. Gin-n-Toast
    on Feb 3rd, 2011
    @ 5:58 PM

    Purchased a pair Tellason jeans in September 2010 and they are the best! Beyond comfortable and they actually conform to my body with wear. Yes $198 is expensive but I foresee these jeans lasting a long very long time making them worth it.

  66. JAH
    on Feb 4th, 2011
    @ 11:01 AM

    The jeans look awesome. If I wear size 36 trouser, would I be size 36 in these jeans? I know jeans can stretch, but from all the comments, it looks like these fit true to size. Can someone confirm?

    200 bucks is not a small amount, but I am willing to spend extra for quality and USA made.

  67. Wesley Verhoeve
    on Feb 6th, 2011
    @ 1:51 AM

    excellent addition!

  68. James
    on Feb 6th, 2011
    @ 4:14 AM

    JAH – Assuming the rise isn’t that much higher than the Mellors, the denim stretches pretty well, so depending on your legs, I’d do a 35 if not 34.

  69. Rob
    on Feb 10th, 2011
    @ 1:58 PM

    What is the shrinkage in the length like for these post wash? 2 inches or so?