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	<title>Comments on: Meet Edward</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/</link>
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		<title>By: reginald</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-21902</link>
		<dc:creator>reginald</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:16:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-21902</guid>
		<description>Interesting article. The military look is back in style big time these days. I am myself in fashion in noticed the military trend recently. I&#039;m in love with the shirts with epaulette, my favorites are the ones from Stone Rose, and they are available on line at ModusCouture.
I like the M-65 jacket (the first picture) and I’m crazy for the coat on the fourth pictures. And yes, the Edward line is available on Odin site, I just went to the website (which I discovered thanks to your article) and saw the  coat that I liked. Now I&#039;m debating if I should buy it.
Great blog, I discovered your blog through the NyMag website.  Keep uup the good work.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting article. The military look is back in style big time these days. I am myself in fashion in noticed the military trend recently. I&#8217;m in love with the shirts with epaulette, my favorites are the ones from Stone Rose, and they are available on line at ModusCouture.<br />
I like the M-65 jacket (the first picture) and I’m crazy for the coat on the fourth pictures. And yes, the Edward line is available on Odin site, I just went to the website (which I discovered thanks to your article) and saw the  coat that I liked. Now I&#8217;m debating if I should buy it.<br />
Great blog, I discovered your blog through the NyMag website.  Keep uup the good work.</p>
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		<title>By: twoShay</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-20977</link>
		<dc:creator>twoShay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 05:29:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-20977</guid>
		<description>You big city fellers really crack me up. You really pay that much for jackets that look army surplus? Different strokes I guess, and some of the stuff&#039;s alright, but I think it would all look a lot better if they put the models in sizes that fit them.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You big city fellers really crack me up. You really pay that much for jackets that look army surplus? Different strokes I guess, and some of the stuff&#8217;s alright, but I think it would all look a lot better if they put the models in sizes that fit them.</p>
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		<title>By: garciamadrid</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-20906</link>
		<dc:creator>garciamadrid</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 12:17:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-20906</guid>
		<description>hi from Madrid,
I have  found out this blog and this brand. it´s great. I´m going to follow your blog.
congratulation!!!
manuel</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi from Madrid,<br />
I have  found out this blog and this brand. it´s great. I´m going to follow your blog.<br />
congratulation!!!<br />
manuel</p>
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		<title>By: Daniel Framton</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-20431</link>
		<dc:creator>Daniel Framton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 19:16:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-20431</guid>
		<description>I think Michael Williams is in LOVE with Sean Sullivan.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think Michael Williams is in LOVE with Sean Sullivan.</p>
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		<title>By: HLDM</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-20293</link>
		<dc:creator>HLDM</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 15:48:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-20293</guid>
		<description>RE: DAM&#039;s question on profit margins

I think this was a great question and hope others chime in. 

I work in the footwear industry where 85% of shoes are manufactured in China. Actually, the number is higher due to the curious nature of duties.I know of one Japanese company that produces many shoes in an excellent Chinese factory but finishes the shoes,i.e. glues the soles on, in Japan. The shoes are considered Japanese made. Italian factories have had a similar practice for decades. Sorry for the digression...

Generally, I see a lot of mark-ups on the cost of goods as hedges for mark down money. As most manufacturers are dependent on department and chain stores, they hedge in case of poor sell through. If you have a product that sells poorly, for whatever reason, the buyer will have his/her hand out to protect the store&#039;s margin requirement. A calculating brand/manufacturer will try to build, at least, part of the mark down within the wholesale cost. Such is how the game is played.

Regarding the Duckie/Odin collaboration, since it is a single retailer partnership, the mark ups do not need to build in the hedge. The store builds the mark up based on the actual COGs, freight, maybe a fee to Duckie Brown, and some LOP (labor, overhead, profit - money to keep the store open). 

I love this type of project. Albam in England runs on a similar model. The value is really visible to the consumer. It is good for the small, local retailer, the domestic manufacturer, and ultimately the consumer (in value, satisfaction delivered). I really wish all these endeavors great success!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>RE: DAM&#8217;s question on profit margins</p>
<p>I think this was a great question and hope others chime in. </p>
<p>I work in the footwear industry where 85% of shoes are manufactured in China. Actually, the number is higher due to the curious nature of duties.I know of one Japanese company that produces many shoes in an excellent Chinese factory but finishes the shoes,i.e. glues the soles on, in Japan. The shoes are considered Japanese made. Italian factories have had a similar practice for decades. Sorry for the digression&#8230;</p>
<p>Generally, I see a lot of mark-ups on the cost of goods as hedges for mark down money. As most manufacturers are dependent on department and chain stores, they hedge in case of poor sell through. If you have a product that sells poorly, for whatever reason, the buyer will have his/her hand out to protect the store&#8217;s margin requirement. A calculating brand/manufacturer will try to build, at least, part of the mark down within the wholesale cost. Such is how the game is played.</p>
<p>Regarding the Duckie/Odin collaboration, since it is a single retailer partnership, the mark ups do not need to build in the hedge. The store builds the mark up based on the actual COGs, freight, maybe a fee to Duckie Brown, and some LOP (labor, overhead, profit &#8211; money to keep the store open). </p>
<p>I love this type of project. Albam in England runs on a similar model. The value is really visible to the consumer. It is good for the small, local retailer, the domestic manufacturer, and ultimately the consumer (in value, satisfaction delivered). I really wish all these endeavors great success!</p>
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		<title>By: Till</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-19959</link>
		<dc:creator>Till</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 21:32:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-19959</guid>
		<description>Sean, you do have beautiful eyes. And lovely tattooed arms, if I may say. What&#039;s up?!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sean, you do have beautiful eyes. And lovely tattooed arms, if I may say. What&#8217;s up?!</p>
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		<title>By: James</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-19949</link>
		<dc:creator>James</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 20:43:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-19949</guid>
		<description>Picked up a shirt and pea coat...  I was just planning on getting a peacoat but tried on a button down and liked the fit.

the black blazer isn&#039;t just plain black.  it has some subtle textured stripe that runs through it.  i liked the tweed jacket better</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Picked up a shirt and pea coat&#8230;  I was just planning on getting a peacoat but tried on a button down and liked the fit.</p>
<p>the black blazer isn&#8217;t just plain black.  it has some subtle textured stripe that runs through it.  i liked the tweed jacket better</p>
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		<title>By: Sean</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-19929</link>
		<dc:creator>Sean</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 17:18:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-19929</guid>
		<description>You guys would really be offended by the rest of my arms then. 

Can&#039;t please them all.....</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You guys would really be offended by the rest of my arms then. </p>
<p>Can&#8217;t please them all&#8230;..</p>
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		<title>By: Classics Patriot</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-19915</link>
		<dc:creator>Classics Patriot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:53:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-19915</guid>
		<description>If I may be so bold to edit Dovima&#039;s comment:

&quot;...but all tattoos are unnecessary.&quot;

There. Much better. :-)

OK, OK, I&#039;ll let Marines, sailors, and soldiers have theirs, as long as they&#039;re tough, patriotic ones. But other than that....</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If I may be so bold to edit Dovima&#8217;s comment:</p>
<p>&#8220;&#8230;but all tattoos are unnecessary.&#8221;</p>
<p>There. Much better. :-)</p>
<p>OK, OK, I&#8217;ll let Marines, sailors, and soldiers have theirs, as long as they&#8217;re tough, patriotic ones. But other than that&#8230;.</p>
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		<title>By: Dovima</title>
		<link>http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/10/28/meet-edward/#comment-19803</link>
		<dc:creator>Dovima</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 21:18:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acontinuouslean.com/?p=12556#comment-19803</guid>
		<description>That first model has great eyes, but the star tattoo on his hand is unnecessary.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That first model has great eyes, but the star tattoo on his hand is unnecessary.</p>
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