The Vintage Oxford Archive | A Continuous Lean.

The Vintage Oxford Archive

Oct 19th, 2009 | Categories: Americana, New York City, Preppy | by Michael Williams

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A museum of vintage oxford shirts? You’d be hard pressed to put together something more appealing to me. With the launch of the new GANT Rugger shop-in-shop on the upper level of its Fifth Avenue flagship, GANT has assembled an exhibition of assorted vintage shirts from its archive. The classic woven shirts — are all co-labeled shirts from mens stores throughout the U.S. Awesome old places like the Yale Co-Op in New Haven and the Klothes Kloset in Spokane, Washington. Basically, everywhere I wish I could have shopped.

The exhibit and the new GANT Rugger shop are launching this coming Thursday (October 22nd) with a cocktail party at the company’s Flagship in New York. ACL readers are invited to stop by to check out the classic shirts, peruse the new GANT Rugger goods and mingle with like minded preppy connoisseurs.

GANT Rugger | Fifth Avenue at 51st Street

Thursday October 22nd | 6-8PM

RSVP | 800-813-9158 or details_rsvp@condenast.com

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A Yale Co-Op oxford from the GANT archive.

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An original "Hugger" shirt from the GANT Archive

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More Yale Co-Op goodness

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Klothes Kloset in Spokane Washington — amazing!

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Real deal Indian Madras

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Comments: 22

22 Comments to “The Vintage Oxford Archive”

  1. Nick
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 1:35 PM

    Too good.

  2. L.A.S
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 1:52 PM

    Lemme get that short-sleeve blue, Yale Co-op joint…absolutely perfect.

  3. Thom
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 2:05 PM

    Well this is just fantastic. GANT has been hitting it hard lately.

  4. Paul
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 2:05 PM

    these shirts are straight nasty.

  5. nick
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 2:05 PM

    someone should call me about exhibits like this…

  6. Zach
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 3:29 PM

    I’ll be there early in the evening. It’s on the same block as my office.

  7. jason
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 3:56 PM

    first one’s great – hopefully that’s not a short sleeved version…

    i’m sure gant’s probably a client of yours, so do you know if they’ll sell these online?

  8. Michael Williams
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 3:58 PM

    Jason — these shirts are all vintage, but they sell similar shirts under the GANT Rugger line. GANT does advertise on ACL (as you can clearly see) but we don’t do their PR or anything.

  9. Chris
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 5:22 PM

    That Pullover…the crown jewel of the archives.
    1949-1953, “Gant Of New Haven” on the neck tag, thus predating the “Gant Shirtmakers” era.
    If the “Gant Shirtmakers” co-op label is our version of “Big E”, that pullover is the WW II period 501XX, jerky tag still intact & printed arcuate stitch.
    Shirt porn, that’s what it is.

  10. Paul
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 6:03 PM

    Wow – does this bring back memories — Wish I was in NYC ’cause I’d be at the opening. I grew up in New Haven and I must have had dozens of Gant Shirts mostly from the Yale Co-op. I know I had the first three here, and lots of plaids and madras. They made great chinos too.

  11. wade
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 7:20 PM

    those are fly.

    does anyone know a good clothing design software program?

  12. MIke
    on Oct 20th, 2009
    @ 9:33 PM

    Michael, do you know if these 6 shirts, 6 decades line is sold online? I could not find them. I appreciate the help. Mike

  13. Peter Pawlick
    on Oct 21st, 2009
    @ 10:27 AM

    I’m sure that the experience of nostalgia has seen more than its share of scrutiny here, but the thing that kills me about the GANT museum is that it’s not just the shirts I want, it’s the relationship with the shirts. As in, the relationship that my grandfather would have had when he shopped at the Yale Co-Op as a student. As in, shirt as utilitarian staple, not as coveted artifact.

    Like most men of his generation, Don Draper keeps a stack of clean, white shirts in his desk. Does it matter which shirts? It matters where he bought them, as this is a matter of taste, but one shirt is indistinguishable from the next. One by one, he will wear them out and replace them. They are his uniform.

    I want to shop so that I don’t have to shop anymore. Is this like fighting for peace or fucking for virginity? Quite possibly.

  14. JP
    on Oct 21st, 2009
    @ 10:37 AM

    Love the authentic repro labels.

  15. Michael Williams
    on Oct 21st, 2009
    @ 11:11 AM

    Those are authentic authentic labels. Vintage goodness…

  16. David DW
    on Oct 21st, 2009
    @ 11:17 AM

    I am a little bit confused, is this the same Rugger as the Rugger SS10 that was mentioned in a previous post? (I hope it is…) thanks

  17. Todd
    on Oct 21st, 2009
    @ 11:32 AM

    Excellent. I have tried to purchase those Gant shirts advertised on your blog via the link but alas the link takes me to their website. No information on where to buy, no online shopping. That said, I agree with Peter Pawlick. These shirts were the mode not a delicate artifact. Unfortunately the mode now is a football jersey. I blame the tech industy. They invented casual Friday and now everyone dresses like a slob. Need proof? Check out peopleofwallmart.com

  18. David S
    on Oct 21st, 2009
    @ 11:05 PM

    So enjoyed reading this yesterday. Stopped by the local thrift today, and lo and behold a co-branded Gant Hugger! Anyone hear of a store called “Crews & Co.” and where it might have been located?

  19. damien
    on Oct 22nd, 2009
    @ 5:12 AM

    That Indian Madras is the business. I found a vintage Gant shirt for $3 in local shop that had the same pattern as a Band of Outsiders BD I bought almost 2 yrs ago (discounted but still pricey). Guess which one was the better quality shirt.

  20. Mark
    on Oct 25th, 2009
    @ 7:51 PM

    Sadly, the remakes advertised on this website are made in China and the like. Kind of ruins the fun.

  21. Mark
    on Nov 1st, 2009
    @ 9:06 PM

    India, actually.

  22. Jerry Kiger
    on Nov 13th, 2009
    @ 11:18 PM

    In the 60′s, I had Gant Huggers from Joseph Horne’s Stanbrooke Shop, Kaufmann’s Claypoole Shop, Hughes & Hatcher, McKeesport’s Kalstein’s Mens Shop and Henry B. Klein, and Jack Harper’s Custom Shop for men in State College[which sold both Gant and Sero]. Also had a Paul Stuart house brand with the “G”. I also had several Gant relative Sidney Shapiro”s equally good Sero Shirts without the “loop” but with a wider box pleat. Via google you can find photos of the Gant and Sero factories and New Haven ads.