Street Style | Mr. Jay Walter | A Continuous Lean.

Street Style | Mr. Jay Walter

Jun 11th, 2009 | Categories: Street Style | by Michael Williams

If ever the word “dapper” applied to a man, Mr. Jay Walter would be that guy. Mr. Walter has been a fixture in the clothing business for years and is well known by custom suit loving gentlemen all over New York for his long tenure in made-to-measure at Brooks Brothers. I became acquainted with Jay a few years ago when he joined J. Press and started the Ivy League retailer’s own MTM program. Always very kind and eager to chat, it’s worth the trip to Press to see Jay.

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That’s a J. Press suit Jay’s way, with darts, 1.5 inch cuffs, ticket pocket and two buttons on the sleeves.

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Comments: 33

33 Comments to “Street Style | Mr. Jay Walter”

  1. Jeremy
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 11:57 AM

    The pinky ring is money!

  2. Ivy
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 12:03 PM

    Jay is a very courteous, very helpful salesman.

    That said, the off-the-rack gray flannel slacks he sold me (manufactured by Berle, I believe) are very poorly tailored. I was a bit disappointed.

    Izzy at LS on 45th is not quite as warm, but his tailoring is unmatched for the price. I’m wearing a pair of immaculately tailored Hickey Freeman pants that cost me $90 total at LS. The potato sack pants from J. Press cost me $125.

  3. Michael Williams
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 12:20 PM

    Ivy,

    Is this really the place to complain about a pair of pants you are unsatisfied with? When did ACL turn into Ask Andy?

    ACL

  4. thorn
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 12:56 PM

    this isn’t ask andy? haha.

  5. Chris
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 1:09 PM

    Jeremy, looking for a signet or family ring? Look no further than G.M. Bentley Designs out of Charlottesville, NC.

    http://smaller.in/cv

  6. Ivan
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 1:24 PM

    Judging from pic 3, Mr. Walter definitely keeps that pimp hand strong.

  7. Dennis Cahlo
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 1:58 PM

    That suit is amazing. He’s such an effortlessly elegant older gentleman.

  8. Chuck
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 2:02 PM

    ^^^Hillarious

  9. brendan
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 2:26 PM

    Going off the cuffs… Isn’t that a Chipp?

  10. ajs
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 2:44 PM

    Michael–

    1. LOVE the site and generally agree with you on most matters.
    2. Couldnt disagree more with your “ask andy” comment (though funny). Your presentation of Mr. Walter, to your loyalists, reads like an endorsement, ie, based on your featuring him, one would want to go see him. The notion that a reader of yours had a not great experience with the clothing there is absolutely relevant. I don’t love putting down someone you’ve featured, but I think you need to understand what your tacit “approval” of someone means to the followers of the sight.

    3. Never, ever, would I do a two-button sleeve. Ever.

  11. Exit Lines
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 3:10 PM

    Re: never wearing a two-button sleeve.
    Then don’t apply for a job at Sterling Cooper.
    http://z.about.com/d/tvdramas/1/0/L/U/MadMen-johnslatt.jpg

  12. alx
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 4:38 PM

    uh, pardon my ignorance gents, but what are “darts”?

    this is in reference to the top pic & comments:

    “That’s a J. Press suit Jay’s way, with darts”

  13. Eric
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 5:20 PM

    Hey,

    I’m curious about the photograph on the shelf. It looks like the beginning of an incredible fist fight. Somebody has swung the opening punch, a group of guys are running over to break it up. Any details on this, Mr. Wms?

    Thanks!

  14. k
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 8:59 PM

    alx-
    how to explain.. darts are the seamed areas where the clothing gets taken in so that it conforms to the body. notice how the fit hugs around the torso. often darts are found on women’s clothing – at the bust, so it sits cleanly and often on the lower back in blazers. the dart above runs from about the chest to the top of the pockets.

  15. JPS
    on Jun 11th, 2009
    @ 9:29 PM

    The dove gray hacking jacket in the background with the slanted pockets and throat latch is killer.

  16. joseph
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 2:11 AM

    Well dressed man etc, but it’s the last picture really makes it.
    Good work Michael.

  17. David
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 8:31 AM

    Like the italian slant with his 3 button pressed to a 2 button…

  18. zekiel
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 8:58 AM

    Aren’t the shoes a bit too casual for the suit?

  19. alx
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 9:28 AM

    k

    thanks for the explanation, i actually googled it last night

    sort of begs the question, dont all mens suits have darts? is it of note here simply because j press traditionally sells the classic american ‘sack’ suit, so the addition of darts here adds a more tailored finish?

    btw, i grew up in new haven ct, and walked by the j press store all the time near yale’s campus

    used to go in there and ogle the clothes all the time! i think the salesmen were perturbed by the presence of a ‘skinny young black kid’ waltzing around this preppy outpost of white establishment! hahahahaa

    ok, enough socio-economic babble, i dug the gear, preppy was fly in the hood when i was a youngster!

  20. doane
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 10:04 AM

    I was expecting some sort of wing tip’s on the gent.

  21. Rob
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 10:29 AM

    ALX – not all suits have darts, including the traditional American “sack,” which had been the standard at J Press historically, which is why, I imagine Michael made special note of the use of darts in this instance. Some suits use other means to achieve waist suppression of the jacket, or, like the sack, largely forgo it.

  22. alx
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 10:53 AM

    thanks rob – im picking up 3 paul stuart suits (soiffer haskin sample sale!!!) f/my old italian tailor tomorrow morn, im going to ask him about the darts thing, nice to learn this stuff, more detail i’ll be looking for when examining clothes now!

  23. Amit
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 6:27 PM

    Brendan – No, it’s a mtm Press suit made by Martin Greenfield; Jay simply asked Martin for the special details not typically found on the standard Press suit – pick stitchting, ticket pocket, darts and two-button cuffs.

    David – The 3-roll-2′s more an American element than Italian.

    Anyway, Jay is the fucking dude.

  24. Sonny
    on Jun 12th, 2009
    @ 7:30 PM

    Its a MTM Brooks suit made by Greenfield with a J. Press label.

  25. gooner
    on Jun 13th, 2009
    @ 12:33 AM

    Love the shoes. If this photo had been taken in Milan, people would have been waxing lyrical about “sprezzatura”.

    Michael – You used to have a link to a blog called Medium Format, what happened? That site had some great images.

  26. Happy
    on Jun 13th, 2009
    @ 1:43 AM

    In response to Erics question about the photo….in front of the photo is a cool little bronze sculpture of two dudes slugging it out. The photo in the back is, I think from Take Ivy and features some kooky krazy roller skating ivy young princes of new england or new jersey.

  27. leon
    on Jun 13th, 2009
    @ 3:27 AM

    well played jay, any good three button jacket lapel will happily “roll” into a two button with the top hidden…that and the shoes in suede are a happy nod to the season, relax it’s summertime!

  28. BOBT
    on Jun 13th, 2009
    @ 9:52 AM

    are there companies besides j.press and brooks brothers that sell sack suits and sports coats

  29. robbo
    on Jun 13th, 2009
    @ 9:05 PM

    who cares what he is wearing

    does he like pine or oak ?

  30. Melanie
    on Jun 14th, 2009
    @ 11:38 AM

    I love me an old man with style. People on here gotta learn to love and loosen up a bit. The shoes with the suit cool it up a bit. I like the warmness of the shade of suede against the grey. He looks comfortable, and it works! Keep up the good work Michael.

  31. Tintin
    on Jun 15th, 2009
    @ 1:11 PM

    Mr Walter is a charming man swimming in duende. His stories are a connection to the famous and not so famous of an authentic New York of the 60′s and not some ersatz TV show. He is the real thing and like a small handful of men who sell clothes in this city – - Tom Davis at Brooks comes to mind — we’re lucky to have them.

  32. Thomasjosephroche
    on Jun 16th, 2009
    @ 1:23 AM

    pinky ring. on point!

  33. Hugo
    on Jun 26th, 2009
    @ 2:31 AM

    It’s a great look, even if it’s not what I would choose to wear myself.

    Two buttons on the sleeve: de rigueur for sack suits, but not my style. I also don’t care for the 3/2 roll–but would you expect anything else from someone working at J Press?

    Suede shoes: Cary Grant and Fred Astaire sometimes wore black suede oxfords with suits, so it’s not like what Mr. Walter is wearing is completely unprecedented. The color is also something that men into shoes would likely approve of. Having said that, I find the soles make the shoes too casual–for my taste–to wear with a worsted wool suit. (Perfect with seersucker, though.)

    No one seems to have noticed that the sleeves of his jacket are so long that they cover his shirt cuffs. I’d go with shorter sleeves and show some cuff.