Rogues Gallery | Spring 2009 Preview | A Continuous Lean.

Rogues Gallery | Spring 2009 Preview

Jan 3rd, 2009 | Categories: Preppy, Style | by Michael Williams

The fine folks at Rogues Gallery in Maine recently released images from the SS09 collection via their blog PTLDME. The collection looks as good as expected, preppy, nautical, causal and wearable. I’m looking forward to getting my hands on some of this stuff come more seasonable weather. My question is, how long can the nautical trend last? It seems to me that it has legs and can stick around for a while. What say you dear readers?

rogues5

rogues_gallery_ss09_acl10

rogues_gallery_ss09_acl11

rogues_gallery_ss09_acl1

rogues_gallery_ss09_acl4

rogues_gallery_ss09_acl3

rogues_gallery_ss09_acl5

rogues_gallery_ss09_acl07

Comments: 37

37 Comments to “Rogues Gallery | Spring 2009 Preview”

  1. TJKingKong
    on Jan 3rd, 2009
    @ 1:48 PM

    I think this is nautical meets grunge and if you recall where we were economically when grunge got its beginnings in the mid-late 80′s we are right back there. Kurt Cobain lived under a bridge and wore flannel and wool sweaters for a reason. I think the movement has legs until the economy recovers and we find a new investment bubble.

    The Onion had it right, The world needs a new investment bubble.

    Cheers,

    Kong

  2. alex rialdi
    on Jan 3rd, 2009
    @ 4:16 PM

    Sure is a darker take on nautical. Not really into Rogues Gallery at all.

  3. Michael Daddino
    on Jan 3rd, 2009
    @ 4:40 PM

    “Darker” is right–the first two photos could use a little more contrast and brightness.

  4. JP
    on Jan 3rd, 2009
    @ 6:34 PM

    They look baked. Pass those doritos, man. Seriously though- I’d say that Rogues Gallery has a more “ancient mariner” vibe rather than classic nautical, which I appreciate. Yeah, it’s moody and dark, but there are definitely geographical impacts on fashion and design. Remember, this is Maine- cold, coastal, and dreary at times. To Kong’s point, there is a nod here to Cobain, who was from Seattle. I see the connection being more about geography and environment than the economy.

    JP

  5. Johnny
    on Jan 3rd, 2009
    @ 10:32 PM

    I’ve seen the entire SS09 and it’s full of very colorful pieces. They just want to “style” it this way. Who really knows why, I think a little red would have been a good move to feel the full Nautical Vibes. Great brand though, always stays true to it’s original concept, while continuing to improve.

  6. Gensten
    on Jan 3rd, 2009
    @ 10:34 PM

    Do real rogues go swimming with their t-shirts on?

  7. stonemertin
    on Jan 3rd, 2009
    @ 11:08 PM

    what happened in the last pic…did he drop his purse LOL…just kidding I like these pics…

  8. Foster
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 2:22 PM

    People will always be into sailing and the whole nautical thing because its a great lifestyle. A good article of clothing makes allusions to an intangible idea, inaccessible to most of the population. In addition to represent a cool lifestyle, sailing’s heritage will keep it keep it relevant.

  9. Charles Bixx
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 4:36 PM

    Looks like an idea gone bad, nautical meth. Not good.

  10. Chris
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 6:43 PM

    That blue jacket with the guy on the rock is dope. I need it in my life.. probably be like $500 though

  11. jenel
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 7:54 PM

    “how long can the nautical trend last?”

    It will last as long as you live:
    a) oceanfront living (Historic Annapolis/Naval Academy comes to mind)
    b) own a boathouse
    c) you’re either a merchant marine, fisherman, or a sailor
    d) you serve in the U.S. Navy
    e) all of the above

    Gosh, I could acquire some of this stuff at my NS Naval uniform store w/out breaking the bank!

    These rogue models need to eat some meat!

  12. Dave
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 8:13 PM

    Looks really good,

    http://WWW.ROONEYSHOP.COM

  13. wayne pate
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 8:13 PM

    I think the nautical trend has reached it’s peak for the hipster anyways. I think RG is indirectly taken there collection into dangerous waters and may get ship wrecked from the changing tides of men’s fashion. Classic Nautical items will always be a constant in men’s fashion. A vintage Navy deckhand jacket with jeans and Chuck Taylors or chino’s military workpants and a striped crew, the pea coat with everything. Classics! Timeless! Furthermore I don’t understand why some of these brands sell themselves short by only representing one type of guy in there look books. Based on these photos I’m surely not represented here so why would I want to spend my money on a brand that didn’t have me in mind.

  14. Big Kid
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 11:43 PM

    If I only bought good from brands that represented me I wouldn’t able to buy much of anything.

  15. abh1wordpress
    on Jan 4th, 2009
    @ 11:58 PM

    I don’t like to critique other photographers, but these seem so affected in their contrived insouciance. Effective advertising will tell a story, but this tale is dark, dreary and completely unfathomable.

    Anyway, the nautical influence at Rogues will probably amount to a printed white anchor on a navy cotton t-shirt, selling for $80.

    I wonder if anybody at Rogues has talked to the real fisherman up in Maine, the lobstermen, who are starving this winter as the price of this crustacean hits rock bottom?

  16. Michael Williams
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 12:02 AM

    I think it is worth pointing out that this is a “look book,” not a catalog, and certainly not advertising. I should also say that the guys at Rogues are good people. Maybe some of you are being a little too critical — but that is just my opinion. Either way I enjoy the discourse. Thanks all.

    ACL

  17. Ian
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 3:14 AM

    I like it. But I’ve always had a soft spot of Rogues Gallery. I agree with what a few have said above. Nautical themes are a regular fixture. Peacoats, fisherman’s caps. Total classics. That said I think the boater shoe craze will be over soon enough. That needs to be muted.

  18. wayne pate
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 9:22 AM

    I would like to add that my comments pertain only
    to the issue at hand and that would be the brand and
    my point of view of it from a consumer/business stand point. I am in no way passing judgement on the individuals since I’ve never met them nor would I ever attack someone within a public forum. At the end of the day I want these brands to succeed not fail. I always want the best for American brands.

  19. BOBT
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 12:01 PM

    I looked at their online shop. Similar looking pieces can be picked up at Sears and Walmart. Nothing really new here just overpriced.

  20. Michael Williams
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 12:42 PM

    Just a note on comments — I generally do not moderate, but if you give a fake name and email I will not approve it. I do not spam — so no need to worry about that. Thanks.

    ACL

  21. Kyle
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 12:44 PM

    abh1wordpress: I have to take offense to your last paragraph.

    Up until 2 months ago, I lived my entire life in on the coast of Maine. Are you aware RG is based in Portland, ME? I know the people at Rogues Gallery and they are a great group.

    Everyone in Maine is aware of the hardships people in the commercial fishing industry face. Rogues using coastal/ nautical inspiration has nothing to do with the fact lobstermen are having a tough time. Your implying they are somehow related is a low blow, and, frankly, in poor taste.

  22. porter hovey
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 3:40 PM

    It’s really perfect I’m mean the cute bearded boys aren’t too bad either.

  23. angelo
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 3:48 PM

    Rogues is one of my favorite labels in the entire country. Nautical isn’t a trend, it’s a quintessentially American stylistic theme.

  24. MK Guidry
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 6:32 PM

    The collection and story seems confused and uninspired … I also feel that the lifestyle they are trying to sell is one that your readers grew out of a couple years ago… surprised you are even into this ACL… i love your blog

  25. Michael Williams
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 6:40 PM

    I was born old and am getting younger, that’s why I like Rogues.

    ACL

  26. anon
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 6:49 PM

    I think these shots are fantastic- brooding, rugged, sexy. I also think that people who are so viscerally against these shots should simply move onto a different site. You can come back tomorrow and enjoy a fresh ACL post.

  27. abh1wordpress
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 7:40 PM

    Kyle-

    The high priced clothing of Rogue’s Gallery, which directly borrows from the authenticity of New England, finds its inspiration in working people’s clothing.

    There is nothing offensive in pointing out the factual irony that the economically struggling locals who give Rogue’s something to design, cannot themselves afford the “authentic” clothes made there.

    $95 t-shirts, $400 corduroy jackets, and $740 leather boots constitute their own kind of blind decadence and low-blow to the common sense of caring consumers.

    Hipsters who can buy $65 “In Cod We Trust” t-shirts usually don’t fish or catch lobster for a living.

  28. Big Kid
    on Jan 5th, 2009
    @ 7:57 PM

    Both Noah and Nom de Guerre are dope. Nom de Guerre has moved away from that reference and is moving in a more fashion direction though.

  29. Santo Roman
    on Jan 6th, 2009
    @ 4:20 AM

    The thing that gets me is the price of the clothes vs the models that are showing them off, I could grow my hair out really long, get stoned and toss on a $45 pea coat that was issued from the US Navy too. Give me one shot of a person who actually working in the maritime world then maybe I’ll think about buying some clothes, but only if the prices are dropped down.

  30. Kyle
    on Jan 6th, 2009
    @ 3:52 PM

    My friend Dicky is a cod fisherman in Alaska. He wears an “In Cod We Trust” T-shirt,

  31. alice
    on Jan 6th, 2009
    @ 4:24 PM

    simply put, this is their own interpretation of traditional nautical clothing. all other high end stores that sell very similar items charge just as much, i don’t think their prices are over the top. i think rogues is getting critiqued a little harshly here. they make good quality clothing and have an incredible eye. one of my favorite stores to visit in new england.

  32. Fick
    on Jan 6th, 2009
    @ 8:48 PM

    Its funny the guys are local, they are creating this brand from local inspiration. Everyone thinks that they are copying or riding a wave etc… This is the way they see life, and the brand has legs, its hip, grunge and classic all in one. Pricey? I guess but compared to what? The 125 dollar loomstate T Shirt? They have a limited run of items and when you at a show or out an about, people may say hey thats Rogues but you pretty much can be sure you are not going to run into a guy wearing your shirt. I support the brand and the shop and the crew there is real, not posing or riding anything, they are a small tight knit group of Artists that deliver. The look book is art not a magazine, its a visual on a look and feel thats it. Its a great shop if you are ever in Portland stop in an see them you will see what I am talking about.

  33. anonymouse
    on Jan 7th, 2009
    @ 3:32 PM

    I went to the store on Wharf St in Portland two days before Christmas during a large sale. I really wanted to get something to support this Maine company, but sadly couldn’t find much beyond graphic t-shirts. The only item I considered buying was a copy of Moby-Dick, but I already own several of these (shelf copy was U.C. Press).

  34. Faith
    on Jan 11th, 2009
    @ 8:21 PM

    I love this line…
    I wish they did womens but I love this take on Nautical wear, it is authentic and orignal and the washes , fabrics and knitwear is so amazing…

  35. Marc D.
    on Jan 14th, 2009
    @ 8:35 PM

    I find this comment thread really amusing, it’s funny to listen to an outsider’s perspective on a geographic region.

    Being a native Mainer, it’s not uncommon to listen to an ‘outsider’ (god I hate that word but what else can I say?) describe my state in the same terms they would describe a cave (cold, dreary, dark..etc.). It’s the equivalent of perpetuating any of the countless stereotypes about NYC. Without sounding like the Maine board of tourism, it’s really just an average, low key place like any other, just a little colder.

    While a fashion designer will sometimes invoke their surrounding for inspiration, it is the countless other influences (music, movies, books, etc.) that ultimately shape the line. Saying that Rogues is a reflection of Maine is like inferring that Isaac Mizrahi must live inside of a rainbow. Rogues appears to be influenced more by the literary world (Jack London, Stephen King, etc.) and historical artifact of any kind than lobstering, logging, and lobster rolls at the Crab Shack in Kennebunkport. I mean one of the previous seasons saw General Custer as a print, and I’m pretty sure the Battle of Little Big Horn didn’t happen in Bangor.

    In all, it’s fashion, regardless of how you feel about it there’s no denying that Alex has done a successful job of assembling all of his influences from Ralph, Abercrombie, and L.L.Bean into a clear, cohesive, relevant, and fresh perspective on menswear.

    Kyle, your connection to the RG guys aside and while I love your passion for our great state, abh1wordpress is right. But in your defense, it’s a fashion line, whether is derives it’s inspiration from workwear or not it’s FASHION.

    PS – Faith, if you’ve actually read this far, Rogues does have a women’s offering but I haven’t seen it available outside of the Portland, ME store.

    PPS – In regards to the plummetting lobster prices: Around the holidays there was a huge push locally for people to eat lobster for Christmas dinner rather than the usual ham. Have any of you in “The City” ever had a lobsterbake for Christmas? I don’t think so. ;-)

    One last thing: using the word ‘authentic’ to describe fashion gets under my skin. There is nothing authentic about fashion, everyone copies everyone. Unless you are the original like the Bass Weejun or the L.L.Bean Hunting Shoe (which are both Maine inventions I might add), you are not authentic.

  36. Steven
    on Jan 16th, 2009
    @ 10:59 AM

    Brings me back to my days at Bowdoin.

  37. Brandon
    on Feb 13th, 2009
    @ 9:39 AM

    I agree an idea gone bad. I can promise you I will NOT be summering in NAUTICAL GOTH!

    Those outfits are absoutley appualing!